Problem with soaping effect / foam in cream and milk body

Hi everyone !
I write here because I meet some problems with my formulations. In these, I use a self-emulsifiying base at 11% for the milk, and 15% for the hand cream. 
This base is made of Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein; Cetearyl Alcohol; Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil; Glyceryl Stearate; Sucrose Stearate (Syn Hydro Cream). Those formulations are made without heat (in cold process).
The oil phase represents 7% for the milk, and 10% for the hand cream.
The problem is that i see a vortex during the mix, which incorpored some air => after the formulation, the texture is foamy. I tried to add some ethanol but the problem is still there. I don't want use dimethicone, because my cosmetic products must to be natural ( I use only some ingredient with high index of natural origin). 

Do you know what can i do ? 

Thank you very much 



  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Mix without making that 'votrex'.
    Dimethicone is used to prevent soaping during application, not to prevent air incorporation due to unappropriate mixing techniques.
    Besides that, you might want to try with a lowre amount of base and a thickener in the water phase to maintain an equal viscosity.
  • Thank you very much, I will try like this. I will give you some news! 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist

    What equipment are you using to form the emulsion?  A homogenizer, a stir plate or an overhead stirrer?

    Sucrose Stearate will generally foam if you homogenize it in the water phase.  If you then follow up with a paddle stirring @300RPM with an overhead stirrer it will help deaerate the mixture.  Don't use a stir plate as the magnetic stir bars will often introduce air into the system.

    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details
Sign In or Register to comment.