I’m trying to make a transparent facial gel with Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) with the formula below which separated.
Formula
57% Water
30% Rose Hydrosol
1.5% Glycerine
3% Propanediol (INCI – Propanediol Dicaprylate)
5% Curcylic 40 (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine & Salicylic acid)
1.5% Anti Acne Formula (Copaifera officinalis (balsam copaiba) resin, Carapa guaiansis seed oil, Euterpe oleracea pulp oil)
1% Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6)
1% Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Method
Water + Glycerine + Propanediol + Sepimax Zen – mixed with hand blender and allowed to hydrate for 2 hours.
Then added Curcylic 40 + Anti Acne Formula + Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin – hand mix with spatula.
Result
Formulation separated
Question
Do I need an emulsifier? If so, which is appropriate?
Is it possible to make a transparent gel which contains oil phase?
What can I do to achieve my intended result?
Comments
Do I need an emulsifier? If so, which is appropriate? - I would say no, Sepimax ZEN is your emulsifier at this input. You can lower it and add some other non-ionic emulsifier to make it more creamy (less gelly). However only stability testing will answer your question.
Is it possible to make a transparent gel which contains oil phase? I would say no. Once you introduce lipid (not solubilised) it will turn milky.
What can I do to achieve my intended result? Remove oil or solubilise it.
If you use high percentages of oils then making a transparent gel won't be possible. Though if you still prefer to add small percentage of lipids, then using a solubilizer will help.