Matting agent in oil based Lipsticks

Devesh327Devesh327 Member
in Formulating
Dear Formulators, 

I manufacture oil & wax based lipsticks & have had success in market for a while due to my temperature stable formulations & excellent colors. However, I have this problem since i started manufacturing lipsticks. 

My matte lipsticks have gloss, they shine on application. How do i reduce the gloss ? 

p.s I have already tried Aluminium silicate, Fumed silica (this helps but not so much), Tapioca Starch etc. I have been able to suppress the gloss with these agents but once i start to increase their percentage, my lipstick turns tacky. 

My formula is 
De-Od Castor Oil 60 - 65 % 
Tapioca starch - 5-10% 
Fumed silica - 1-2% 
Paraffin wax - 5-7.5% 
Bees wax - 5-7.5% 
Carnuba wax - 5-8% 
Stearic acid - 0.2 - 0.8 % 
Preservatives - TBHQ 0.25% 

Please help me achieve the desired matte properties ! I am willing to help in your products that you have a problem with. 

Thanks in advance !
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Comments

  • grapefruit22grapefruit22 Member
    I have no clue about lipstick formulation, so you can ignore my comment, but isn't castor oil a little shiny on its own? Matte lipsticks have usually dimethicone as a base. You can try with addition of clay (kaolin, stearalkonium bentonite).
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    edited May 9
    @Devesh327 ; i guess for your goal we can play with things  

     Reduce ingredients (castor oil, carnauba wax) which cause glossy effect  69% as average in your formulation then it is soo logical to have glossy effect. 
      Then the idea of @grapefruit22 is good by adding clay for more matt finish. 
  • Devesh327Devesh327 Member
    grapefruit22 said:
    I have no clue about lipstick formulation, so you can ignore my comment, but isn't castor oil a little shiny on its own? Matte lipsticks have usually dimethicone as a base. You can try with addition of clay (kaolin, stearalkonium bentonite).
    I forgot to mention that we work in affordable beauty sector in class C & D markets. Dimethicone is very expensive if used as a base. Thank you for your suggestions. I will try adding some clay to the formulation & revert back here. I have in the past used dimethicone in my formulation. Dimethicone does mattify the system, but it reduces payoff in the process, making the stick harder. 
  • Devesh327Devesh327 Member
    Fekher said:
    @Devesh327 ; i guess for your goal we can play with things  

     Reduce ingredients (castor oil, carnauba wax) which cause glossy effect  69% as average in your formulation then it is soo logical to have glossy effect. 
      Then the idea of @grapefruit22 is good by adding clay for more matt finish. 
    Sure, I'll add clay & revert here with the results soon. Also if you can, please tell me what i can replace the castor oil with ? Thank you. 
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @Devesh327 read this interesting article  https://betaknowledge.ulprospector.com/7130/pcc-touch-color-historical-contemporary-lipstick-formulation/
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