Sepimax Zen and oils

GeorgeBensonGeorgeBenson Member
edited April 21 in Formulating
I have scoured the internet but for some reason I am having trouble finding a straightforward answer to this simple question.

Using Sepimax with only water soluble ingredients seems pretty simple, you just sprinkle it on and let sit for 8 hours before mixing. But i want to use it in a 4% oil and water based serum. What is the best way to go about this?

do i...

1) mix oil and water phases together and THEN add Zen and let sit for 8 hours

Or

2) add Zen to oil phase for x number of hours/minutes and then mix into water phase

Or

3) add Zen to water phase for 8 hours and THEN mix oil into the gelled aqueous phase

Or...??? 

Please help, I am dying to get started with this serum but I don't want to waste ingredients and time doing it the wrong way. I am seeing so much contradictory info about it.

thanks!!!

Comments

  • I use Zen extensively in creams.  I always add it to the oil phase.  It does nothing there...just sits...so time is irrelevant.  Then when phases are combined it is activated.  I do not like working with thick water phases, so this alleviates this concern.

    But the answer is...it works in any phase.  Just use the one you prefer.
  • @Graillotion any specific way you then mix the oil phase containing zen into the water or it doesn't really matter?
  • GraillotionGraillotion Member
    edited April 21
    @Graillotion any specific way you then mix the oil phase containing zen into the water or it doesn't really matter?
    @Graillotion any specific way you then mix the oil phase containing zen into the water or it doesn't really matter?
    Doesn't seem to matter.... I use moderate shear for two min, followed by ice cream maker stirring to full cool down.

    Keep in mind...it does not dissolve or hydrate in oil, so it will basically just be sediment in the oil phase until it meets with water.
  • 1, 2 or 3 can depend if you have an emulsifier for the oil phase, and a heated process as well.

    As Graillotion mentioned, sometimes it doesn't matter. When Sepimax is hydrated and formed the gel, just high shear it to emulsify the oil phase, then switch to low shear. 
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