Comments

• Microformulation Member, Professional Chemist

  January 18

  At >0.5% to 2%, this is an OTC Drug. 0.5% and below is the Cosmetic level.
  

  markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  
• mikeylamar Member

  January 18

  Microformulation said:

  At >0.5% to 2%, this is an OTC Drug. 0.5% and below is the Cosmetic level.
  

  
  I don't plan on selling my lotion, this is for my private use.
  
• ggpetrov Member

  January 18 edited January 18

  Hello. You can go with 0.5% Allantoin. It's one of those ingredients which works best at smaller concentrations. You should put it in the hot water phase, otherwise it will not dissolve completely. Me personally heat the Allantoin at the 80-85 degrees, and I don't think it degrades because of that.

  I am not sure about the Niacinamide. It's a tricky ingredient, because it's a Ph sensitive. Generally it requires a lower Ph. Also if you wish to make your lotion more moisturizing, you can add some glycols or salts, like Sodium lactate or Sodium PCA. I think you fat doesn't look very nice.
  

  
  
  
• Paprik Member

  January 18

  Yeah, stick to 0.5% maximum of Allantoin. This will work pretty good. No point having more of it. Add that to water phase. 
  I would not say Niacinamide is pH sensitive. It works great between 3.5 - 7.5 (If I remember correctly). Which you should formulate within this range anyway. Add that in cool down phase though, it is stable in higher temperatures, but you don't want to accidentally ruin it when you overheat your phase. 
  
  I'm missing an antioxidant for your lipid. Grapeseed oil gets oxidised pretty easily. Also, you are mixing lipids with different polarity. So you double check stability. 
  
  Your preservative is not natural whatsoever (Euxyl PE 9010). It may look more natural if compare with parabens, but it is not. It is pretty robust preservative, however only PET would give you your answer. To me however, it should be fine. 
  Add chelating agent to boost it and get the pH close to 4.8.
  
  Regarding protein, check with your supplier. So far I worked with heat stable proteins, so I used them in water phase. 
  
  Hope that helps, happy formulating.
• Abdullah Member

  January 19

  Agree with everything @Paprik said. But i would say, this is a broad spectrum preservative but more strong for bacteria and less strong for fungi. In emulsion you need a preservative that is more strong for fungi. 
• abierose Member

  January 19

  Rice protein should be added in cool down below 40°c 😉
• mikeylamar Member

  January 19

  Paprik said:

  Yeah, stick to 0.5% maximum of Allantoin. This will work pretty good. No point having more of it. Add that to water phase. 
  I would not say Niacinamide is pH sensitive. It works great between 3.5 - 7.5 (If I remember correctly). Which you should formulate within this range anyway. Add that in cool down phase though, it is stable in higher temperatures, but you don't want to accidentally ruin it when you overheat your phase. 
  
  I'm missing an antioxidant for your lipid. Grapeseed oil gets oxidised pretty easily. Also, you are mixing lipids with different polarity. So you double check stability. 
  
  Your preservative is not natural whatsoever (Euxyl PE 9010). It may look more natural if compare with parabens, but it is not. It is pretty robust preservative, however only PET would give you your answer. To me however, it should be fine. 
  Add chelating agent to boost it and get the pH close to 4.8.
  
  Regarding protein, check with your supplier. So far I worked with heat stable proteins, so I used them in water phase. 
  
  Hope that helps, happy formulating.

  
  That does help alot! I will now use the niacinamide in my cool down phase. Regarding the oxidizing of the grapeseed oil, I'm aware it has a 3 month shelf life but I'll probably use it all by then anyways.
  

  ggpetrov said:

  Hello. You can go with 0.5% Allantoin. It's one of those ingredients which works best at smaller concentrations. You should put it in the hot water phase, otherwise it will not dissolve completely. Me personally heat the Allantoin at the 80-85 degrees, and I don't think it degrades because of that.

  I am not sure about the Niacinamide. It's a tricky ingredient, because it's a Ph sensitive. Generally it requires a lower Ph. Also if you wish to make your lotion more moisturizing, you can add some glycols or salts, like Sodium lactate or Sodium PCA. I think you fat doesn't look very nice.
  

  
  
  

  
  I'm using grapeseed oil this time because it's relatively light. I'm not sure how moisturising it will be because it doesn't have the oleic acid but I'll try it anyways.