My recipe - 2000g
Water phase -68%
Water 59.5% - 1190g
Glycerin 5% - 100g
Niacinamide 2.5% -50g
allantoin (add at 54°) 1%- 20g
Oil - 28%
Glyceryl stearate & Peg 100 5% - 100g
Cetyl alcohol 4% - 80g
Grapeseed oil 16% - 320g
Petroleum jelly 3% - 60g
Cool down 45° - 4%
Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1% - 20g
Rice protein cool down - 3% 60g
I want to use more than 0.5% allantoin but I'm worried about sharding once I increase it to 1%. Do I need to include a solvent at 1% or will I be fine with my current formula.
I'm also concerned about whether I should add allantoin to the water phase or the cool down phase. To my understanding, allantoin is soluble at 50°c and below with thorough agitation, but works best at 50°c and above and can tolerate up to 80°C max for prolonged usage.But there's conflicting information everywhere. and (the supplier I purchased from ) says at it in the cool down phase but many of the chemists (, , , ) use it at the heating phase. I think the general consensus on chemists corner is to add it during the, can you explain why it's better to do t
-Will my preservative be enough, I know it's a natural one and not as strong as parabens.
-The general rule of thumb is 5% emulsifer for 25% oils, can my Glyceryl stearate & Peg 100 emulsifer handle 25% oil at 5%?
-Should I add the rice protein during the cool down phase or heating phase?