allantoin: usage above 0.5%, cool down phase or water phase ( lots of conflicting information)

My recipe - 2000g
Water phase -68%
Water 59.5% - 1190g
Glycerin 5% - 100g
Niacinamide 2.5% -50g
allantoin (add at 54°) 1%- 20g

Oil - 28%
Glyceryl stearate & Peg 100 5% - 100g
Cetyl alcohol 4% - 80g
Grapeseed oil 16% - 320g
Petroleum jelly 3% - 60g

Cool down 45° - 4%
Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1% - 20g
Rice protein cool down - 3% 60g 

I want to use more than 0.5% allantoin but I'm worried about sharding once I increase it to 1%. Do I need to include a solvent at 1% or will I be fine with my current formula.

I'm also concerned about whether I should add allantoin to the water phase or the cool down phase. To my understanding, allantoin is soluble at 50°c and below with thorough agitation, but works best at 50°c and above and can tolerate up to 80°C max for prolonged usage.But there's conflicting information everywhere. Lotion crafter and formulasampleshop (the supplier I purchased from ) says at it in the cool down phase but many of the chemists (Swiftycraftymonkey, link , link, link ) use it at the heating phase. I think the general consensus on chemists corner is to add it during the, can you explain why it's better to do t

Additional questions

-Will my preservative be enough, I know it's a natural one and not as strong as parabens.
-The general rule of thumb is 5% emulsifer for 25% oils, can my Glyceryl stearate & Peg 100 emulsifer handle 25% oil at 5%?
-Should I add the rice protein during the cool down phase or heating phase?
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Comments

  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    At >0.5% to 2%, this is an OTC Drug. 0.5% and below is the Cosmetic level.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • At >0.5% to 2%, this is an OTC Drug. 0.5% and below is the Cosmetic level.

    I don't plan on selling my lotion, this is for my private use.
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    edited January 18
    Hello. You can go with 0.5% Allantoin. It's one of those ingredients which works best at smaller concentrations. You should put it in the hot water phase, otherwise it will not dissolve completely. Me personally heat the Allantoin at the 80-85 degrees, and I don't think it degrades because of that.
    I am not sure about the Niacinamide. It's a tricky ingredient, because it's a Ph sensitive. Generally it requires a lower Ph. Also if you wish to make your lotion more moisturizing, you can add some glycols or salts, like Sodium lactate or Sodium PCA. I think you fat doesn't look very nice.


  • Yeah, stick to 0.5% maximum of Allantoin. This will work pretty good. No point having more of it. Add that to water phase. 
    I would not say Niacinamide is pH sensitive. It works great between 3.5 - 7.5 (If I remember correctly). Which you should formulate within this range anyway. Add that in cool down phase though, it is stable in higher temperatures, but you don't want to accidentally ruin it when you overheat your phase. 

    I'm missing an antioxidant for your lipid. Grapeseed oil gets oxidised pretty easily. Also, you are mixing lipids with different polarity. So you double check stability. 

    Your preservative is not natural whatsoever (Euxyl PE 9010). It may look more natural if compare with parabens, but it is not. It is pretty robust preservative, however only PET would give you your answer. To me however, it should be fine. 
    Add chelating agent to boost it and get the pH close to 4.8.

    Regarding protein, check with your supplier. So far I worked with heat stable proteins, so I used them in water phase. 

    Hope that helps, happy formulating.
  • Agree with everything @Paprik said. But i would say, this is a broad spectrum preservative but more strong for bacteria and less strong for fungi. In emulsion you need a preservative that is more strong for fungi. 
  • Rice protein should be added in cool down below 40°c 😉
  • Paprik said:
    Yeah, stick to 0.5% maximum of Allantoin. This will work pretty good. No point having more of it. Add that to water phase. 
    I would not say Niacinamide is pH sensitive. It works great between 3.5 - 7.5 (If I remember correctly). Which you should formulate within this range anyway. Add that in cool down phase though, it is stable in higher temperatures, but you don't want to accidentally ruin it when you overheat your phase. 

    I'm missing an antioxidant for your lipid. Grapeseed oil gets oxidised pretty easily. Also, you are mixing lipids with different polarity. So you double check stability. 

    Your preservative is not natural whatsoever (Euxyl PE 9010). It may look more natural if compare with parabens, but it is not. It is pretty robust preservative, however only PET would give you your answer. To me however, it should be fine. 
    Add chelating agent to boost it and get the pH close to 4.8.

    Regarding protein, check with your supplier. So far I worked with heat stable proteins, so I used them in water phase. 

    Hope that helps, happy formulating.

    That does help alot! I will now use the niacinamide in my cool down phase. Regarding the oxidizing of the grapeseed oil, I'm aware it has a 3 month shelf life but I'll probably use it all by then anyways.
    ggpetrov said:
    Hello. You can go with 0.5% Allantoin. It's one of those ingredients which works best at smaller concentrations. You should put it in the hot water phase, otherwise it will not dissolve completely. Me personally heat the Allantoin at the 80-85 degrees, and I don't think it degrades because of that.
    I am not sure about the Niacinamide. It's a tricky ingredient, because it's a Ph sensitive. Generally it requires a lower Ph. Also if you wish to make your lotion more moisturizing, you can add some glycols or salts, like Sodium lactate or Sodium PCA. I think you fat doesn't look very nice.



    I'm using grapeseed oil this time because it's relatively light. I'm not sure how moisturising it will be because it doesn't have the oleic acid but I'll try it anyways.
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