What is Sunflower Seedcake?

This is a question that has been at the back of my mind for a while.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake is an ingredient that is commonly used in Estee Lauder brands (Clinique, Estee Lauder, MAC, La Mer, etc).

Seems like it is the "residue from the expression of oil from the seedcake of the sunflower", similar ingredients using "seedcakes" like Shea Seedcake and Hemp Seedcake are multi functional with antioxidant/chelating/emollient properties.

Why is it so commonly used in this brand(it's in almost every Clinique moisturizer)? Is it a proprietary ingredient that has special processing and efficacy data?

My personal hypothesis is that Sunflower Seedcake is a relatively cheap source of antioxidants and vitamin E because Sunflower seeds are high in vitamin E and phytic acid. It's also interesting that Clinique, Estee Lauder and La Mer almost never use tocopherol as an ingredient but sunflower seedcake is almost always used. Do you think it's a way to make the ingredients list seem more interesting while adding vitamin E to the formula?

What are your thoughts on this ingredient?

Comments

  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    This material will be largely lecithin, similar to soy "foots". Phosphatidyl choline and phosphatidyl serine mainly. I am curious as to how the brand can name or use that INCI, but when you are Estee I suppose you can do a lot of things other manufacturers can't.
  • This material will be largely lecithin, similar to soy "foots". Phosphatidyl choline and phosphatidyl serine mainly. I am curious as to how the brand can name or use that INCI, but when you are Estee I suppose you can do a lot of things other manufacturers can't.
    Very interesting, lecithin sure does feel amazing on the skin and they definitely do have a very unique name for it too
  • I'm not sure I'd get too excited.  Judging by this excerpt of ingredients from one product, it's more than likely just sunflower seed powder.

    "Ingredient Listing: Declustered Water (-)\Aqua\Eau De-Structuree (-) , Declustered Water (+)\Aqua\Eau De-Structuree (+) , Butylene Glycol , Methyl Gluceth-20 , Peg-75 , Alcohol Denat. , Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane , Algae (Seaweed) Extract , Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil , Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder , Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake , Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal , "
  • Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
    Sunflower Seedcake
    Cas No:68937-99-5
    Abrasive; Bulking

    It's just sunflower meal to add natural LOI.
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