Request on standardising my formular

Hi, am from Uganda and new on this platform. Thanks admin for approving my request to join. 
Can someone help me with this formular, clients say its drying ( like it lacks moisturizing ability). After a few minutes , it feels like it evaporated off the skin;

Purpose: brightening, fading dark spots, acne treatment and skin rejuvenation (Anti-ageing)

Oil phase;
Polar wax 5%
Cetyl alchol 2%
Papaya oil 5%.+ kojic dipalmitate 2%
Coffee oil 5%
Mineral oil 3%
Petroleum jelly 1%

Water phase;
Distilled water 66.5%
Glycerine 1%
N-acetyl Glucosamine 2%
Alpha arbutin 2%
Hyaluronic acid 1%
Allantoin 1 %
Hydrolised collagen protein 0.5%

Cool down;
Vitamin E  1%
Lavender essential oil 1%
Sodium benzoate 0.5 %
Potassium sorbate 0.5%

Thank you in advance for your assistance. 


Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Add more glycerol.
    Reduce potassium sorbate down to 0.2%, 0.5% might cause skin irritations (and is prohibited at that level in several countries).
    Also, adjust pH best below 5 or your preservatives won't work properly. However, based on the ingredients, the benzoate/sorbate combo might not suffice.
    1% allantoin is too much, it's not soluble at that concentration and just wasted.
  • PhilGeisPhilGeis Member, Professional formulator
    edited October 2021
    As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don't need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

    In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.
  • edited October 2021
    Pharma 
    Thank you for your advise.
    What percentage of glycerine is maximum as per this formular 



  • PhilGeis said:
    As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don't need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

    In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.
    Thanks.  I will try to source phenoxyethanol. 
    Its rather scarce over here though

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @AZIZ_KALUNGI256

    You can increase the Glycerin to 5% or so. 

    On the Hyaluronic Acid, that's a pretty high level for a cream ... are you using a super low molecular weight HA?  If not, switch to a hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 200 kDa or less and drop the level down to 0.2% or so.

    You can also drop your Vitamin E down to 0.2% or so. 

    Sodium Benzoate (0.3%) and Potassium Sorbate (0.2%) would work.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • I counted your formula and you end up at 95 percent maybe you forgot something?. I've hardly experience with the products you are using the only I know is that vitamins E can max be 0.4 percent.
  • Yes i forgot mango butter 5%
  • To add to all above:

    1% of lavender essential oil will be a killer! Typically MAX 0.5% for face products would be safe. 
    Start with 0.1% and see how it goes. I'm surprised no one complained yet, haha. 

    You are also mixing non-polar and polar lipids. You may get some syneresis over time.

    You are also stabilising more than 20% of lipid and I don't see any rheology modifier. Stability testing would be necessary.  

    I would start with much simpler formula and add actives and other ingredients as you go.  
  • PhilGeis said:
    As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don't need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

    In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.
    Thanks.  I will try to source phenoxyethanol. 
    Its rather scarce over here though

    How do you know what scares people?
    In my opinion asking people what is scaring you is not a good idea.

    The best way to know is to check what preservative does the big companies, most popular products that majority of people in your area purchases use. This way you van know majority of people aren't scared of that preservative. 
  • Abdullah said:
    PhilGeis said:
    As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don't need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

    In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.
    Thanks.  I will try to source phenoxyethanol. 
    Its rather scarce over here though

    How do you know what scares people?
    In my opinion asking people what is scaring you is not a good idea.

    The best way to know is to check what preservative does the big companies, most popular products that majority of people in your area purchases use. This way you van know majority of people aren't scared of that preservative. 
    I think what AZIZ meant was it is difficult to source/get Phenoxyethanol...scarce as in rare or hard to come by 😉 
  • abierose said:
    Abdullah said:
    PhilGeis said:
    As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don't need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

    In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.
    Thanks.  I will try to source phenoxyethanol. 
    Its rather scarce over here though

    How do you know what scares people?
    In my opinion asking people what is scaring you is not a good idea.

    The best way to know is to check what preservative does the big companies, most popular products that majority of people in your area purchases use. This way you van know majority of people aren't scared of that preservative. 
    I think what AZIZ meant was it is difficult to source/get Phenoxyethanol...scarce as in rare or hard to come by 😉 
    My misunderstanding.

    Thanks for correction
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