I finally got hold of some Eumulgin SG after seeing it on . But now it has opened up another level of infinite permutations of experiments that I could try.
Background: For body creams, I currently like lamellar-forming and polyglyceryl emulsifiers e.g. Dermofeel NC, Tego Care 450, Tego Care PBS 6, and Behenyl Alcohol as the main fatty alcohol. In general, I find these emulsifiers not the best for glide and body but they are moisturising (or at least less drying) than other emulsifiers I've tried.
I haven't really got any specific questions... just asking if anyone has any general tips on using it to help my narrow down my focus on experimenting with it. But for example, some questions currently swimming around my head are:
1) What does Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate bring to a formulation other than stability? Does it have any inherent moisturisation capabilities? Is it drying when used at too high a level (e.g. more than required to emulsify)?
2) What is the application and afterfeel of it like? Or is it quite "naked" feeling?
3) When using it as a stabiliser rather than primary emulsifier, what percentage do you like using it at? Sometimes I see formulations online that use it at as low as 0.1 - 0.2%.
4) Do you ever reduce the level of primary emulsifier when you add Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as a stabiliser or do you in general add it on top just to add some extra strength to the emulsion? Just as a side, when I add 0.5% Glyceryl Stearate Citrate on top of a "works for my skin" level of polyglyceryl emulsifier, the result is drying, with a "wash-out" effect. I haven't had the chance yet to see if this happens with Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate.
5) What happens if you reduce the level of primary lamellar-forming emulsifier (to a level that either only *just* emulsifies your oil and water phases, or even may be slightly less than needed if used as the sole emulsifier) and add Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as a secondary emulsifier/stabiliser? Are the benefits of a lamellar-based emulsion negated? @Pharma
6) Do you prefer adding it to the oil or water phase?
Thank you for reading this far! Would love to hear from anyone with any tips.