For your review-face primer and suggestions?

I have a face primer for oily skin... any suggestions? I did notice I get a soaping effect.  What can i do about it?

Deionized Water (0.2 µm filtered) 71.210
sepimax zen 0.400
sodium hyaluronate 0.090
propanediol 3.000
sepimat H10 1.400
botanessential olive S-EHO 10.000
Lexfeel7 3.000
cetaryl alcohol 1.000
cetyl alcohol 2.000
Montanov 82 3.000
turmeric butter 0.500
sweet almond oil 1.000
octyl palmitate 0.750
caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.750
vitamin E 0.100
Collagen 0.200
Dermofeel PA-12 0.200
flower extract 0.200
orange flower 0.200
spectrstat 1.000


  • Add some light silicone. I would use D5, it works well for oily skin. Also check refractive index of your oils. I might be wrong but I recal CCT is high.
  • StanleyStanley Member
    Thank you for the review!!!  Can't use D5 --no silicones.. I did increase the amount of lexfeel and that did help.  What I am thinking is to use a silicone alternative that has the same viscosity as 250 or 350 st.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    LexFeel N200 or N350? I never used these and can't tell you anything you wouldn't find online within 10 seconds... However, the silicone alternatives I tried do not considerably help with soaping. This is obvious due to the chemistry of silicones which simply can not be replicated with most non-silicone molecules (some might but they are usually non-cosmetic and fully petroleum base -> the latter doesn't seem to bother you, the former should). Hence, removing/reducing the ingredient which causes soaping (must be the Montanov) is the easiest option. Simply increasing the oil phase can also help but that comes with possible drawbacks.
  • StanleyStanley Member
    give with one hand and take with the other.  I was thinking the Montonav might be the culprit.  Do you recommend an emulsifier?
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    That's like asking: I have that boat, it tends to rock a bit, whatcha recommend?
    The answer could be 'airplane carrier' or 'supertanker' but maybe you would feel more at ease with a catamaran or stick with your current boat but sail on a lake instead of the open ocean. ;)
    Alkylpolyglucosides (part of the Montanovs) have a large space where they form liquid crystal structures (aka alpha gels) on the aqueous phase-oil phase-emulsifier triangular landscape called pseudoternary phase diagram. See random example HERE page 8, other landscapes look very different and my not contain all possible phases and mixed-type areas or such of complete emulsion failure.
    You can see that even minor changes of either of the three partners or their constituents might push you out of that area, possibly in one where the APGs do what they do second-best: foaming. Understanding emulsion types and your specific emulsion and its parts helps to guide you over that landscape to your target point. How you do that is impossible to predict just by looking at the products composition. However, with some well planned trials you could predict which adjustments are more or less likely to help.
    Three strategies I see (on aformentioned page, you're most likely somewhere on the left side but aim for a lamellar pattern): Use less emulsifier, add low polarity oils at sufficient amounts, and/or add more liquid crystal promoters (by preference of the monoglyceride or sorbitan ester type -> if you're still in the HLB age = a low HLB co-emulsifier).
  • Add 2% glyceryl stearate or glyceryl oleate. This also help with soaping.
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