Mascara

AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
in Formulating
I'm working in mascara formulation. I use Beeswax, CMC, xanthan gum, Argan oil, Cacao batter, Bentonite, PVP, EDTA, Stearic acid, Triethanolamine, FeO, Den Ethanol, water and a bit preservative.

Is use of ACRYLATES necessary? What is their impact in Formula?
I want have a professional formula As far as possible. what is important in mascara formula and I haven't?

Thank you in advance for your answers
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Comments

  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    if you mean "acrylates copolymer", it's used for waterproofing / volumising / smudging reduction
    the most widely available polymers of this kind are the Daitosol series from Daito Kasei, which are designed for use in colour cosmetics
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    1) All those oils aren’t necessary 
    2) Iron oxide won’t give you jet black color. You need carbon black
    3) A bit preservative is a bad idea. You need to think through your preservation system very very carefully when it comes to anything that’s in close contact with eyes. Mascara is a product prone to contamination. 
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    Bill_Toge said:
    if you mean "acrylates copolymer", it's used for waterproofing / volumising / smudging reduction
    the most widely available polymers of this kind are the Daitosol series from Daito Kasei, which are designed for use in colour cosmetics
    Thanks about your advice. Is diminished of 'acrylates copolymer' true?
    I use of CMC instead it.
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    ngarayeva001 said:
    1) All those oils aren’t necessary 
    2) Iron oxide won’t give you jet black color. You need carbon black
    3) A bit preservative is a bad idea. You need to think through your preservation system very very carefully when it comes to anything that’s in close contact with eyes. Mascara is a product prone to contamination. 
    Thanks a lot
    Which oils aren't necessary?
    Is carbon black safe for use in cosmetics?
    I use From sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, 0.2% each of them. Is it enough?
  • PhilGeisPhilGeis Member, Professional formulator
    AbbasMo said:

    I use From sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, 0.2% each of them. Is it enough?
    That is clearly not enough.  Those are not enough vs pseudomonads that can cause very serious eye infections.  Please look at labels of major marketers e.g. Estee Lauder, Cover Girl 
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    PhilGeis said:
    AbbasMo said:

    I use From sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, 0.2% each of them. Is it enough?
    That is clearly not enough.  Those are not enough vs pseudomonads that can cause very serious eye infections.  Please look at labels of major marketers e.g. Estee Lauder, Cover Girl 
    Hi
    I don't want use of Paraben derivatives.
    Benzyl Alcohol is so Irritant.
    Can you help me about this issue?
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    Use phenoxyethanol. 
  • PhilGeisPhilGeis Member, Professional formulator
    What is your pH?

  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    Abdullah said:
    Use phenoxyethanol. 
    Thank you
    Should I use of it alone? Can I use it with other preservatives like sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate?
    How percentage is enough?
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    edited June 2021
    PhilGeis said:
    What is your pH?

    7-8
    I use TEA for adjust it
    What other pHs can be suitable for it?
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    Use it with another Preservative. 
    At that pH you may use it with Ethylhexylglycerin or caprylyl Glycol or Paraben or caprylhydroxamic acid. 
    I don't know other preservatives that can be combined with phenoxyethanol and effective at high pH.
  • PhilGeisPhilGeis Member, Professional formulator
    7-8 - the organic acids are +/- useless.   Unless you can qualify your preservative system - esp. to ISO 11930 critetia - please do not attempt a mascarsa.
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    Abdullah said:
    Use it with another Preservative. 
    At that pH you may use it with Ethylhexylglycerin or caprylyl Glycol or Paraben or caprylhydroxamic acid. 
    I don't know other preservatives that can be combined with phenoxyethanol and effective at high pH.
    Thanks a lot man.
  • AbbasMoAbbasMo Member
    PhilGeis said:
    7-8 - the organic acids are +/- useless.   Unless you can qualify your preservative system - esp. to ISO 11930 critetia - please do not attempt a mascarsa.
    Thank you about your advice, I try to fix these shortcomings.
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