Simple Dishwash and Floor Cleaning formulation

Hi guys, I just wonder if the formula below is fine. First, my purpose is to make cheap and simple dishwash and floor cleaning.

1. For dishwash, the main purpose is to degrease and clean the plate, so is this formula enough?

To 100 Water
10.0 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (70% active)
q.s salt
q.s preservative


2. And for floor cleaner, again I think the main purpose is just to clean the dirt, so can the above formula be used also?

*The water in my region is hard water, do you think I will need EDTA for my floor cleaner formula?
* If I don't add EDTA, will it damage the ceramic/tiles, by making a deposit of scum onto the ceramic/granite tile?
* Is there any other material that can help make the floor look shiny or look more polished?

Sorry if my questions is not so relevant with personal care, but I want to know if my formula actually is good enough for general cleaning. Thank you so much in advance

Comments

  • vhogiono said:
    Hi guys, I just wonder if the formula below is fine. First, my purpose is to make cheap and simple dishwash and floor cleaning.

    1. For dishwash, the main purpose is to degrease and clean the plate, so is this formula enough?

    To 100 Water
    10.0 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (70% active)
    q.s salt
    q.s preservative


    2. And for floor cleaner, again I think the main purpose is just to clean the dirt, so can the above formula be used also?

    *The water in my region is hard water, do you think I will need EDTA for my floor cleaner formula?
    * If I don't add EDTA, will it damage the ceramic/tiles, by making a deposit of scum onto the ceramic/granite tile?
    * Is there any other material that can help make the floor look shiny or look more polished?

    Sorry if my questions is not so relevant with personal care, but I want to know if my formula actually is good enough for general cleaning. Thank you so much in advance
    1. Yes a little but addition of LABSA will aid it. 7% active SLES isn't a lot, so might be worth increasing that. Your current concentration is more like a hand-wash in terms of degreasing strength. 
    7% active SLES will only thicken so far with salt as well, so look to add something like CAPB.
    You might leave deposits. There's no harm adding EDTA as a chelating agent so give it a go, try it out.
    Shiny and polished, yes. I think some people add things like dimethicone for slip and some shine, or mineral oils if they're used more specifically on metals.
  • @Benz3ne Thank you so much, this is a great insight for me. I always learned to formulate personal care, so I have no idea when facing ceramic instead of skin :). And again, yes 7% is what i usually use for hand wash. I really have no idea how much surfactant is needed to clean a floor.

    By the way, can you help further?
    1. Do you think SLES is too good for floor/dish cleaner? (I don't know what anionic surfactant is cheaper than SLES for now...). In fact LABSA (Linear Alkylbenzene sulfonate here cost 20% more than SLES). But if LABSA has double the power cleaning than SLES, than I guess its worth to replace the SLES. 

    2. Why do I have to add CAPB? I'm afraid it will only add to the cost. As far as i know, CAPB help bring mildness when combined with SLES. But here we are dealing with plates, and ceramics surface, so CAPB is not necessary right? And based on my experience, SLES itself can thicken well with salt, even without addition of CAPB.
    Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    3. Do you have recommendation for EDTA input to be used on ceramic/plates? I usually use 0.2%-0.5% for handwash. Is there any bad effect if I added it so much more (lets say 1-2%)?

    Thank you again @Benz3ne. I know it sounds weird, but my purpose here is to reduce the cost for some facilities that need daily cleaning. I have no intention to commercialize this product, because I know the competition is just crazy cheap already :)
  • What about SLS, pretty cheap?
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    @Benz3ne mentions a must-have: EDTA. Without it you'll be rinsing for a long time trying to get rid of soap film ("deposits") Good advice on adding CAPB too, though not so much for the mildness as for the hydrotrope synergy. @Pattsi has a good point too: SLS is good & cheap & plentiful.

  • @Pattsi
    At my current stage, I usually buy from online or local small suppliers. Thats why the choice for raw material are very limited. As for SLS I couldn't find any. Most are SLES either in paste or needle/solid form. And so far, this is the cheapest anionic surfactant.

    I guess SLS is no longer available here. (or perhaps I have to buy in huge quantity from the factory directly)..

    Thanks


  • @chemicalmatt
    Thank you. I will add 0.5% for EDTA then since its pretty useful :)
    Btw, what is hydrotrope synergy? Is it to make the surfactant more soluble and also to increase stability to avoid separation?
Sign In or Register to comment.