Cleansing Balm leaves a grease

TwishTwish Member
in Formulating
Hey everyone!

So, I formulated a cleansing balm with the following ingredients, but the wash off is not great. It leaves a film behind.

My earlier formulations were without soy wax but it would start to melt at 32 C. But wouls wash off quite nicely. Now it has a great texture and melts in my fingers but leaves a cast behind.

Also, do let me know will phenoxyethanol be stable in this formula.

Thank you all for your help!

Sunflower oil 25.5%
Castor oil 40%
Neem oil 5%
Soy Wax 10%
Emulsifying wax ( certaryl alc + cethareth 20) 10%
Cetyl alcohol 5%
Polysorbate 20 2%
Vit E 0.5%
Greentea extract 1%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Ethylgexylglycerin + capryl glycol 0.5%
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Comments

  • crillzcrillz Member
    I may be missing something but isn't this all oil phase? If so don't need emulsifying wax or polysorbate. Or preservative.
  • TwishTwish Member
    Yes.. it is. The emulsifiers are for a wash off. So that it turns milky on contact with water and removes the make up, sunscreen and gunk without stripping the skin. And preservative so that it does not go bad if someone accidentally uses it with wet hands.
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Cut that castor oil with some sulfonated castor oil and you'll be in business. It won't hurt the bath "bloom" you seek either. 
  • TwishTwish Member
    Thank you @chemicalmatt any substitution for TRO? I would prefer something gentle and am not sure of the quality of TRO available here.

  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited January 2021
    Remove castor oil completely, replace polysorbate 20 with polysorbate 80 and up it to 10%. Castor oil is used in lip care a lot. One of the reasons is that it has quite a unique fatty acids composition and leaves a barrier (I don't want to use a word film because it would be wrong, but it is kind of a film) on the skin. What is good for a lip balm isn't good for a rinse-off product. You also don't have enough surfactants, polysorbate 20 is great for micellar waters not for oil cleansers and it's definitely not sufficient at 2%. Ideally, replace all emulsifiers with Cithrol 10GTIS if you have it. If not, poly 80 and ceteareth 20 will do.
  • TwishTwish Member
    @ngarayeva001Thank you so much! Let me get to work ASAP. Do not have cithrol 10GTIS currently so am going with poly 80 and a lighter oil to something like this:

    Sunflower oil 30%
    Grapsend oil 27.5%
    Neem oil 5%
    Soy Wax 10%
    Emulsifying wax ( certaryl alc + cethareth 20) 10%
    Cetyl alcohol 5%
    Polysorbate 80 10%
    Vit E 0.5%
    Greentea extract 1%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
    Ethylgexylglycerin + capryl glycol 0.5%
  • TwishTwish Member
    Just an update: The cleanser worked like a charm! Thank you for helping out!!
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