Toner troube

Hello everyone,
I have created a nice rose water toner, using a combination of natural preservatives Dermasoft 1388 (Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate) and Dermafeel PA (Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol). Unfortunately after some time I can see some transparent crystals forming in the toner, and it seems to ruin preservative system, since the product acquires an unpleasant smell. Could some one advise me what might be the problem? What is being crystallized in the solution? The forming crystals look like ice needles.

The formula is as follows:

Ingredient               Amount, %
Allantoin                   0.10%
Cucumber extract     2.00%
Dermasoft 1388       3.00%
Distilled Water          84.47%
Lactic Acid                0.03%
Rose hydrosol           8.00%
Sodium Benzoate      0.30%
Sodium Lactate         2.00%
Dermafeel PA-3        0.10%

Thanks in advance!


  • Hi. When using Dermosoft 1388 eco, final pH of the product should be 4.50 - 5.00. What is your pH?
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    I don't think it is ruining the preservative system.  The preservative system you used doesn't work, or at the very least, is not effective for your system. It's more difficult to preserve natural ingredients. 

    You would be able to create safer, more effective formulas if you avoided using the "natural" preservatives (since they don't work) and stick with preservatives that are safe and reliable like methylparaben and DMDM hydantoin. 

    As far as what the crystals are, it's hard to say without seeing them. They could be bacteria, fungi, or maybe your salts are crystallizing out. Since you say your product smells, it's most likely microbial contamination.
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