I want professional help

Hello I have these ingredients German industry cream This cream is very expensive It does a cold exfoliation of the body It removes a layer of the skin without any heat or wonderful tingling I want to make a formulation of a similar approach to him but the proportions are not clear I have I want help from specialists

I tried to make a formulation close to it. I don’t know how valid it is
Retinol 1%
AHA 5%
Ferulic acide 2%
Ascorbic acid 4%
Salicylic acid 1%
Arbutin 3%
Mullberry 3%
Is there an error or modification with the kind knowledge? This is valid for all areas of the body, even the sensitivity is a light creamy texture closer to the serum, but it is cream.


  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    That looks like a list only of 'active' ingredients. What you require is the full LOI.
    Phytic acid is likely around 0.1-0.2% and acts only as chelate/preservative booster.
    For all the others, you could run a TLC of the product to get an approximation of their %.
  • I thought retinol needed higher pH
  • SosozSosoz Member
    edited April 17
    I thought retinol needed higher pH
    What is the best pH and are the remaining ingredients good? Can the recipe be modified?
  • SpongeSponge Member
    Retinol could be higher, maybe 2%.
    AHA could be higher, maybe 10%.
    Ascorbic acid could be higher, maybe 12%.
    Salicylic acid could be higher, maybe 2%.

    Ultimately, this is all personal preference and how much your skin has adapted to the formula. If this is for personal use, you’ll need to decide for yourself. Also, pH could be anywhere from 3-4 for maximum effectiveness. 

    It’s worth noting that retinol products are best around 4-5 pH and vitamin C, 2.5-3. AHA’s, 3-4. Please keep in mind going as low as 2.5 pH can be hazardous to your skin if your skin is not used to it.
  • SpongeSponge Member
    I thought retinol needed higher pH
    I believe retinol does best in the 3.75-4.75 range. 
  • @Sponge properly formulated retinol would cause severe peeling even at 1%. When I say severe I mean you will be peeling like a snake and your skin will be falling off your face in 3cm whole pieces which looks even more gross than what you imagine.

    Retinol is a very serious ingredient and should be treated accordingly. Mixing it with AHAs is a terrible idea and the formula above can cause severe skin damage. Optimal pH for retinol is neutral. I gave a careful hint on it not to hurt anyone's feelings, but you are giving terrible advice to someone who is clearly doesn't understand what are they doing and leaving me no choice than to point on this directly. Anyone who will attempt to apply 2% of SA, 10% of glycolic 2% of retinol and other actives at the same time, will end up in dermatologist office.

    Do not mess with serious actives without knowing what you are doing. Retinol and SA are OTC drugs and you will hurt yourself.
  • @Sosoz, the very fact that you have just called a product that is assumed to take off a layer of skin "a recipe" tells me that you have absolutely no idea what you are doing. This is not how you should approach this type of project. It is the same as coming to a forum of medical doctors and asking to guide you on how to do surgery based on the fact you have a very sharp knife and know how to cut a whole chicken. Go to the https://www.chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/137/need-formulating-services-here-are-some-contacts#latest, find a chemist and outsource it to a professional. 
  • ngarayeva001 said: Retinol is a very serious ingredient and should be treated accordingly. 
    No doubt!
    Read this if you have any doubts: https://animals.howstuffworks.com/mammals/eat-polar-bear-liver.htm
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited April 24

    I understand it’s gross but this is to give an idea what kind of peeling one should expect after using 1% retinol o/w cream for 4 days. No other actives. Imagine what would  happen if you add AHAs and BHAs to the equation?
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