Lip Gloss Formula

Hi All,

Looking for some advice on a lip gloss formula. I'm trying to formulate a "high-end" lip gloss. 

1.) Does anyone know how to prevent the pigment from bleeding outside of the lips? Silica Dimethyl Silylate isn't preventing it 100%. 

2. Inner lip corners are clumping with pigment. What will prevent it from caking/clumping in the mouth corner? 

Polyisobutene 1200 - 53%
Cocoa Butter - 4%
Shea Butter - 2%
Jojoba Seed Oil - 16%
Vitamin C Palmitate - 0.50%
Vitamin E Acetate - 1% 
Vitamin E Tocopherol - 0.20%
Silica Dimethyl Silylate - 8.8%
Coconut Oil - 8%
Sunflower Oil - 2%
Silica - 1.5%
Mica - 1%
Octyldodecanol - 2% 


  • High end lipglosses don’t vary any from any other. I’m sure you’ve noticed this if you look at ingredients. 

    I don’t think you included your entire formulation if you’re adding pigment at some point. 

    Did you wet grind the pigment before adding it? If you tell us your procedure it’s easier to help. 
  • @Sponge I add 2% pigment and wet grind the pigment with the coconut oil, sunflower oil, and octyldodecanol. 

    Once applied to the lips it eventually bleeds a short time later and clumps/cake in the inner mouth corner. 
  • SpongeSponge Member
    Is there a reason for polyisobutene instead of the hydrogenated version? I think that could help, as well as the addition of waxes. Either will give you better structure. 
  • @Sponge I was using polyisobutene for the viscosity. I’ll try adding hydrogenated.  

    What Vegan wax would you recommend? 

    Would sunflower seed Wax be fine or something else? 

    what percent would you add in?

    what would you use to melt the wax? 

    Thanks so much for the help. 
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