White streaks when spreading the cream on the skin

Hi, I need some advice, I'm trying to do a bio-based face cream that could support some oils and AHA. When I spread it on the skin first it looks good, then white streaks appear, all turns white, and finally, it is absorbed, but it isn't nice. I'm doing small batches of 50ml to test, hand mixing. Here are the formulas I tried: 

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: 5%
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 4%
Glyceryl Monostearate (SE): 8%
oils: 10%
glycerin: 6%
Xanthan Gum: 0,4%
Preservative. 0,6%
water: 66%

Also tried 
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: 5%
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 4%
glycerin: 6%
Xanthan Gum: 0,4%
Preservative. 0,6%
water: 84%

and this one:
Cetyl alcohol: 2%
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 6%
oils: 10%
glycerin: 2%
Xanthan Gum: 0,5%
Preservative. 0,6%
water: 78,9%

Always the same problem.
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Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Normal. It's soaping due to the emulsifiers. You can either change the emulsifier system or add some silicone.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Yep Olivem 1000 pretty prone to soaping. Dare say ur not interested in using a small percentage (1-2 percent) of dimethicone but that would fix it. 
  • Thank you! adding silicone is not an alternative for this formulation, but I changed emulsifier and got rid of olivem and it improved!
  • Hi @AleH, what emulsifier did you switch to? Did the whitening effect go away completely, or does a bit remain?
  • Hi @AleH, what emulsifier did you switch to? Did the whitening effect go away completely, or does a bit remain?
    Hi @helenhelen. I added 0,2%  of Lauryl glucoside (Plantaren 1200 N UP) It improved a lot, but maybe a little bit remained...still trying things

  • @AleH My chemists tested Potassium Cetyl Phosphate in some of my samples and it eliminated the whitening but the formula was less moisturising afterwards.
  • helenhelen, I will try it!
  • @AleH My chemists tested Potassium Cetyl Phosphate in some of my samples and it eliminated the whitening but the formula was less moisturising afterwards.
    thank you very much!
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