Hi everyone. I'm very green and have only just started experimenting like a month ago after a long research period.
So I'm trying to formulate an anhydrous body butter that is exceptionally light for an anhydrous product as well as wanting it to be fairly firm, have a higher melting point so that it absorbs before it tuns fully liquid on the skin and great glide with a silky feel. I'm also trying to avoid silicons and keep my ingredients on the natural side of the spectrum.
Other than use butters that absorb quickly I've tried some esters, squalane, and caprylic/capric triglyceride. My plan was to use one of those at 10 %, but each one seems to have a jelling effect on the formulation, even the squalane. Worse is that the butter then has a low melting point even with high concentrations of butter and even if it originally feels very firm it immediately liquefies when i put it on my skin. Additionally the butter seems to go through a curing phase where it takes a few days to reach it's final texture. This is even after it cooled in the fridge. after about 3 days it does improve to where its less jell like, has a higher melting point and better glide than it did the first day. still however the melting point is just a little too low.
I did buy some glyceryl stearate to try to create a firmer product with a higher melting point but I haven't had time to try it yet.
Has anyone ever experienced this curing phase?
Any ideas on methods to counteract the jelling or other non jelling ways to reduce greasiness?
Thanks for any advice in advance.