Cream rinse

BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
I'm developing this primarily for my dog that has atopic dermatitis and first testing it on myself. Usage: to be applied after shampoo and rinse, left on for five minutes then rinsed off.
Water 56%
Aloe Vera extract (x10) 10%
Tepex 3%
glycerin 3%
MSM 2%
DMAE 0.2%
Jojoba oil 7.5%
Kpnangan butter 7.5%
Glyceryl stearate 4%
Tween-80 4%
PEG-7 GC 2%
Parabens blend 0.4%
Liquorice (12% GL acid), brown powder, 0.5%

The test batch came out very well, better than I had expected from a first test, a free-flowing tan coloured liquid. However on cooling it tends to develop clumps. It seems to be on the edge of setting into a cream but not quite. It's not a problem with separation. The clumps easily break up when a bottle is shaken. The effect is very good, softened and silky skin and hair.

I'd like to eliminate the clumping but I am not quite sure of the best way to achieve that.

Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.


  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    For what does GL acid stand for? Glycyrrhizic or glycyrrhetic acid? It could be the reason for clumping.
    What is Tepex? Can't be THIS product unless you're mentioning packaging materials in the LOI because it's sooo super fancy! :smiley:
    Out of curiosity: do you use pure liquid DMAE or crystalline DMAE bitartrate? How does it affect/modify sensorial properties? So far, I only use it as nutrient supplement in my shakes.
    Why did you make it a "mask" like product and not a leave-in (simply by cutting down oils and emulsifiers)? 5 minutes is a short time for those ingredients, don't you think?
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Glycyrrhizic acid, but it's soluble, has a lot of saponins. Tepex is Tepezcoahuite. Crystalline DMAE bitartrate. It doesn't materially affect sensorials.
    I agree with your comment, it was expensive considering the amount I used.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Okay, thanks!
    Glycyrrhizic acid is THE saponin in licorice ;) . Read in THIS thread the answer by @Doreen on August 14. Seems like it is susceptible to gelling in conjunction with certain salts/acids.
    So why the rinse-off? Personally, I'd at least use glycerin, MSM, DMAE, licorice extract, mimosa extract, and probably aloe separately as a leave-in, for example as an aqueous spray. I use glycerin, MSM, DMAE-related compounds (trimethylglycine and choline), and a tick quillaja saponin in a moisturising hair spray. Well, different "indication" and even more ingredients but feels nice and soothing and nourishes my hair, it's not greasy, tacky, or anything and, who would have thought, it utterly fails regarding its main purpose, hair growth LoL.
    Just a wild guess: glyceryl stearate and phytosterol-derivatives (glycyrrhizic acid is closely related to those) show, at a certain proportion, synergistic oil gelling. This gelling is influenced by cooling speed and some of the sterols are susceptible to water. This might contribute to the irregular clumping... again, just guessing/extrapolating. IMHO splitting your product into two separate ones would not only solve the issue but increase benefits.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    sounds like non-uniform cooling; partially non-fluid products like thin creams cool more quickly in some parts than others, and the heat doesn't dissipate at the same rate in all directions, so some parts become more viscous than others, hence the clumping
    a little bit of a heat-resistant hydrocolloid like xanthan gum (say 0.1%) can help by reducing the fluidity and making the structure of the liquid less variable with temperature

    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Thanks. Yes I read up on licorice emulsions and made one with no problem at all. As a leave-in it would be far too sticky, roughly what percentage of water would you recommend for a leave-in product?
    By the way, the following day, the sample had turned semi-solid.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Hey @Pharma curious... do you think that sterol gelling thing is how Imlan makes this 3 ingredient cream with betulin?
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    edited August 2019
    @Belassi Sure it would be too thick! That's why I'd drop nearly all the oils (use them for your 5 minute spa mask) and just apply the actives in plain water. If you know what I mean...
    The mentioned "sterol gelling" can take quite some time!
    @EliseCortes No, it's not that. Because a) sterols need a second ingredient such as glyceryl stearate (although, with enough you can still produce high viscous oil phases simply by increasing melting temp of the blend ;) ) and b) betulin is not an emulsifier, therefore no cream/emulsion. Although, they do manage to make a cream... dunno what's going on in that product! Maybe just the high melting point of the oil phase resulting in a semi-stable lamellar-like product (this kind of cream is traditionally obtained by using beeswax and is called a traditional cold cream).
    Gotta run, sorry!
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