Advice on my Lotion Formula

JarJar Member
edited July 2019 in Formulating
I have been learning a lot, and tweaking this recipe constantly, trying several different ingredient levels. As I am nearing completion of the formula, I'd like to share and ask for some constructive advice. I wonder if anything looks out of line, or perhaps I am using too much of something, or not enough of something else. Any advice would be appreciated!

Lastly, I am doing a test using Varisoft EQ 65 tonight when it arrives in the mail. I know that I will need to remove xanthan gum when I do that...will I need to remove anything else?

Phase A:
  • Distilled Water - 66.8%
  • Glycerin - 1.8%
  • Silk Amino Acids - 2%
  • Ginger Root Extract - 2%
  • Xanthan Gum - 0.2%
  • Sodium Phytate - 0.2%
Phase B:
  • Rice Bran Oil - 5.3%
  • Montanov L - 5%
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil - 3%
  • Oat Oil - 3%
  • Cetyl Alcohol - 3%
  • Ginseng Root Extract - 2%
  • Seaweed Extract - 2%
  • Tocopherol 95 - 0.2%
Phase C:
  • Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin - 1%
  • Hydrolized Rice Protein - 2%
  • Fragrance - xx
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Comments

  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    To be honest it all looks fine. The only two things to add, silk amino acids smell absolutely dreadful. See if you are ok with it. Otherwise you might want to add a knock out fragrance to hide that smell.
    You have a lot of ingredients that represent significant challenge for preservation system. I am not saying it will happen but don't get surprised if your preservative fails on the mold side. It's not a bad preservative, but it can fail sometimes when formula has too much bug food. Good luck in the lab.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Add EDTA to improve the preservative system.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    edited July 2019
    @Belassi Jar already has phytate in it ;) .

    Why add silk amino acids to phase A and hydrolised rice protein to phase C? They're both similar, aren't they?
  • JarJar Member
    Hydrolyzed rice protein can be damaged by high temperatures and so it is recommended to be added in the cool down phase. At least that is what I had read. 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @Jar - how would you be able to tell that the hydrolyzed rice protein is damaged?  Color change? Odor change? 

    Hydrolyzed proteins are all pretty much damaged proteins in that they maintain none of their original conformation after the hydrolyzing process.  Essentially, it is just rice protein chopped up into short amino acid sequences. 

    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @Jar:

    I find it best to include only the required base ingredients in Phase A and Phase B to form the emulsion ... and then add all extracts, fragrances, preservatives and pH adjusters during cool down.  Add each individually.

    You never know which ingredients may affect the formation of the emulsion, so keep that as simple as possible.  If you do have an ingredient that breaks the emulsion, when you add the extraneous ingredients at cool down, you will very quickly identify which ingredient presents a conflict.

    You can save a lot of time & trial/error using this approach:

    Phase A:
    • Distilled Water - 66.8%
    • Glycerin - 1.8%
    • Xanthan Gum - 0.2%
    Phase B:
    • Rice Bran Oil - 5.3%
    • Montanov L - 5%
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil - 3%
    • Oat Oil - 3%
    • Cetyl Alcohol - 3%
    • Tocopherol 95 - 0.2%
    Phase C:
    • Silk Amino Acids - 2%
    • Ginger Root Extract - 2%
    • Ginseng Root Extract - 2%
    • Seaweed Extract - 2%
    • Hydrolized Rice Protein - 2%
    • Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin - 1%
    • Fragrance - xx
    • Sodium Phytate - 0.2%
    Your formula looks just fine.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • JarJar Member
    @MarkBroussard

    Being a powder, will the sodium phytate blend in to the emulsion properly if it is added in cooldown, after the emulsion has formed?
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Yes, it will ... but, if you want more accurate control over the pH adjustment, I would recommend you make a 25% Sodium Phytate solution and add it while you are measuring the pH.

    What is your final pH btw?
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Unknown Member
    Jar said:
    I have been learning a lot, and tweaking this recipe constantly, trying several different ingredient levels. As I am nearing completion of the formula, I'd like to share and ask for some constructive advice. I wonder if anything looks out of line, or perhaps I am using too much of something, or not enough of something else. Any advice would be appreciated!

    Lastly, I am doing a test using Varisoft EQ 65 tonight when it arrives in the mail. I know that I will need to remove xanthan gum when I do that...will I need to remove anything else?

    Phase A:
    • Distilled Water - 66.8%
    • Glycerin - 1.8%
    • Silk Amino Acids - 2%
    • Ginger Root Extract - 2%
    • Xanthan Gum - 0.2%
    • Sodium Phytate - 0.2%
    Phase B:
    • Rice Bran Oil - 5.3%
    • Montanov L - 5%
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil - 3%
    • Oat Oil - 3%
    • Cetyl Alcohol - 3%
    • Ginseng Root Extract - 2%
    • Seaweed Extract - 2%
    • Tocopherol 95 - 0.2%
    Phase C:
    • Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin - 1%
    • Hydrolized Rice Protein - 2%
    • Fragrance - xx
    hi you have to add glyceryl mono stearte 2.5 %
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