Eyeshadow formula advise

Hello out there. I have created a formula for pressed matte eyeshadows and they are luxurious and perform well...except for one thing...they are not finger swatchable! They build a film very quickly. I can correct it by adding silica microspheres, however, if I add the right amount to correct it, then my shadows become too powdery. I use

Pigment (oxides or ultramarines)
Boron nitride
Talc or nylon 12
Dimethicone 350
Isopropyl myristate 
Zinc stearate or magnesium stearate 
Silica microspheres

This problem does not happen with my shimmers and metallics. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! 


  • Matte shadows do not need as much of the dry binders as the shimmery ones do. Use less of the zinc stearate/magnesium stearate and more silica ms’s or nylon 12. The iron oxides stick together well, so adding too much binders make them form a hard cake. Also may need to reduce the liquid binders some. 
  • Thank you for the advise...I will give that a try. I originally added silica ms's until it went away, but then the shadows got quite dusty. I also reduced the liquid binder as well. I'm thinking 3% for the dry binder should do it since that would be half.
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