I'm
trying to produce vitamin C serum which have 15% vitamin C (Ascorbyl
palmitate).
If I want to make 50 ml serum, for 15% vitamin c, I need 7.5 grams Ascorbyl palmitate.
But it's an enormous amount of powder that not melting with that amout of water
and oils (42.5 ml of oils and water).
what do I do wrong?
other thing:
When I mix small molecule (such as Ascorbic
acid) and large molecule (such as protein), is it still penetrate the skin?
Thanks
Comments
You'll never get 15% Ascorbyl Palmitate into a serum. As @doreen noted it has poor solubility in oil and at that you have to heat the oil phase to 115C to get even 0.3% in solution.
If you want an oil-based Vitamin C serum you should use tetrahexadecyl ascorbate. 3% should be fine ... serums with 15% to 20% Vitamin C are generally when you use Ascorbic Acid as the Vitamin C ingredient.
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I hated the Ascorbyl palmitate with oil to 85 degrees. When phase A has cooled down (40 degrees) I add phase B (water, lecithin, etc). In fact, I made the amount of 3% because 15% is just impossible.
Of course with 15% Ascorbic acid there is no problem to melt it, but everywhere I read about making vitamin C serum ,and if I want it will be effective, they recommend it contain 15%-20% vitamin C. As Ascorbic acid is unstable, every one use oily derivatives of vitamin C .
I even looked the ingredients list for companies that sell vitamin C serum, especially those who write that the product contains 20% vitamin C. The result is that it always contain one of the oily derivatives.
So if it’s the oily derivatives do I need to use 15% or less??
The 15%+ is the most effective range for Ascorbic Acid ... actually, it's 17%.
What "oily derivatives" of Vitamin C are you finding loaded at a 15% level?
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Do they put from that only 6.4% (if it equivalents to 96%)?
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Intresting....Thanks alot
so if I want effective serum and equivalents to 15% ascorbic acid, Its enough to add 2.3% ascorbyl palmitate or its better 3%?
Effective mean: antioxidant, skin firmness, protect from free radicals, minimise wrinkles signs, photo protective etc
It is poss to get that by 10%-20% of vit C (and as I understand yesterday, these percents are for ascorbic acid)
chickenskin - I read it later (with the links)
So what is the conclusion?
Is there a site/table that show how to calculate the percentage of ascorbyl palmitate (or any oily vit C) with regard to AA?
How much AP do I need to add if AA is 15%, 16% and 17% ?
Further to what you write here – 30% small molecule 70% large molecule, is it still penetrate the skin and do the same work as AA do ?
I have documents regarding, but unfortunately I still can't upload files here.