INCI list

jeremienjeremien Member
edited January 2019 in Formulating
I recently received this product (eye contour) that looks great : 
Water (Aqua), Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Lanolin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Water, Cera Alba, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sambucus Nigra Extract, Tocopherol, Gold, Silver.

Anyone can see any surfactant in this list? preservative?


  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Maybe they think the Silver will work as a preservative? I don't see anything else. Probably just mislabeled.
  • I see a lot of ingredients labels these days that look like this....just list the sexy stuff, drop the other ingredients. I wonder how they get passed the cosmetics authorities. 
    Dr. Mike Thair
    Cofounder & Chief Formulator
    Indochine Natural
  • @mikethair ; In the last issue of C&T there is thsi article dealing with labelling and the author go in that way of reducing the labeling to only the sexy ingredients:
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @jeremien - Interesting article. I tend to agree that longer ingredient lists are not useful for consumers. But I'm not sure his example shortened label is much better. 

    @mikethair - at least in the US, authorities don't really check labels prior to product launch. 

  • DASDAS Member
    True, might not be useful to consumers, but there are reasons why there are laws and regulations that we all must respect. Ask an allergist if a shorter INCI will help him do his work... I take a detailed list will be of importance to the doctor, not the patient. Also there might be other purposes that we are not taking into consideration.

    The "detailed info on website" is equal to say "hey marketing, go nuts". And of course, leaving the decision of what's hot or not to a companies' criteria is simply a terrible idea.

    Honestly, that prop sounds more like lobby than author's input.
  • @DAS I completely agree with you
  • That Sambucus Nigra Extract is Phytocide Elderberry, sold as a preservative.  I used it in combination with Silverion (silver citrate) successfully, and that's probably what they're doing here.  However I also used a light blocking bottle (silver citrate is very unstable in light) and had leucidal-SF and chamomile essential oil in there.  So there was a combination of natural so-so preservatives, and it was an expensive way to go - not to mention that the product was over 5% preservative ingredients.
  • p.s. I still use Phytocide Elderberry, though not on its own.  Elderberry extract has good support as an anti-microbial in responsible research journals in contexts not related to this particular preservative product.
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