Brainstorm: acne formulation for teenage

Happy thanksgiving !
i am interesting on developing acne cream for teenage girls and boys.
any suggestions for acne ingredients? Active acne ingredients? Herbs or botanical ingredients? 
Thanks for all inputs. I hope everyone has wonderful thanksgiving with your love ones


  • Happy Thanksgiving @Dtdang.

    Salicylic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide, and Retinol. However, they all are serious ingredients and require a lot of experience. The product with those ingredients can be classified as OTC drug. 

    Botanicals do not do anything. Tea tree oil is somewhat effective, but it's cytotoxic. Which means it kills all cells, not only bacteria causing acne.

    If you really want to try, make a light lotion with salicylic acid and a little of niacinamide. Read LOI of Effaclar products by La Roche Posay for some inspiration.
  • @ngarayeva001 ;
    Could you please tell more about tea tree oil being cytotoxic? 
    Sulphur can work right? 
  • @Amira, I started this discussion some time :

    Give it a read. There is a link to a research paper shared by Perry. It's long but worth reading. Short summary: all essential oils are either phototoxic (for example orange, lemon) or cytotoxic (they talk about tea tree as an example) or both. They might have some skin (and overall health benefits) but the side effects make it isn't worth it.
  • Tretinoin wins hands down
    Hydroquinone works too, but check its regulations in your country.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    It depends on your jurisdiction:

    In the US, the approved Actives for acne OTC topicals are:  Salicylic Acid, Resorcinol, Sulfur and Benzoyl Peroxide and it is regulated as an OTC drug product.

    Retinol would put you in the acne drug category in the US.

    If you are formulating for a non-US market, check your in-country regulations.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details
  • @ngarayeva001 thank you, i will
    I appreciate it 
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Sure. (This does not apply to the US)
    Kill the bacteria: Thyme extract; monolaurin; Tea Tree oil
    Stop the inflammation: aloe vera > 20% or more; Calendula extract.
    Wound healing: Tepezcohuite extract
    Improve the skin, pseudo estrogenic effect: licorice acid

    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Thanks everyone who inputs into my post. Happy thanksgiving.
    @Belassi, aloe Vera juice or gel. What are they different? 
  • Azelaic acid. Canadian willowherb extract. 
  • @Dtdang, I personally don’t like aloe, but if you want to use it, get a concentrated powder instead. I have x200 concentration. It means, 0.5 gr in water gives you 100% aloe. You probably don’t want to add more than 0.1gr which would make your product 20% aloe vera. I don’t like it because it’s an electrolyte and decreases viscosity of polymers. Regarding tea tree oil, again I would rather try to so something with salicylic acid insted. It works, it’s cheap, easy to get in most places, causes less irritation than tea tree (if formulated right).
  • @Belassi I found a polymer that tolerates aloe relatively well. I remember that you mentioned you prefer conventional rheology modifiers fot lotions but maybe the information is useful for you. ViscOptima SE by Croda. Based on Sodium Polyacrylate. INCI Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20. I actually found it on makingcosmetics under another brand name. This rheology modifier tolerates aloe and  MAP but Sodium PCA destroys it.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Thanks, but ... it's Croda! Here in Mexico Croda are impossible. Huge MOQ, no customer care.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    further to @MarkBroussard's point, in Europe benzoyl peroxide is restricted to medicines, and resorcinol is restricted to hair dyes

    encapsulated retinol is a proven, effective, safe and chemically stable way to fight acne; if you can source a water-soluble encapsulated form, even better

    UK based cosmetic chemist with 13 years' experience at the bench. I've worked with pretty much everything apart from pressed powders, soap, solid lipstick and aerosols.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited November 2018
    I am using oil-soluble retinol liposomes for antiaging effect. Is there a reason why encapsulated retinol should it be water-soluble (I actually thought that even encapsulated version should be oil-soluble as vitamin A is oil-soluble)?
  • Lots of ideas in the Wikipedia article

Sign In or Register to comment.