List of vitamin c that does not cause photosensitivity during the day!!!

I know that vitamin c is a great antioxidant and supposed to protect the skin from the UV light. My vitamin c serum is doing the opposite during the daytime. I get darker and a bad suntan and the serum is not going bad. I do wear a high SPF cream.  The vitamin C I'm using does have L-Ascorbic Acid, Ethyl ascorbic acid & Ferulic Acid. Does anyone know what vitamin c or derivatives that are best to wear during the day or night?  


  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    It would help if you could put the entire list of ingredients in your serum.
  • The ingredients for the vitamin C serum are: Water/Distilled Orange Blossom, L-Ascorbic Acid, MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate),  Ethyl ascorbic acid  Acid,  Ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Kelp Bioferment, Oat Beta Glucan, Vitamin E (mixture of Tocopherols & Tocotrienols), Ferulic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Optiphen.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited November 2018
    LAA oxideses in water in just several weeks. This formula would be good if it had more Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and no LAA.
  • Your fake tan tells that vit C has oxidized in the bottle or over your skin.
    In order of ruling out the first case, consider that in your list there are ingredients that play better at different pH levels, so  it's not unlikely at all that something 'went bad'.

  • @Perry any thought on the list of ingredients I provided. I know that you wrote a blog on this topic, but I don't remember if you discussed a list of photosensitivity of vitamin c or derivatives.
  • LAA oxideses in water in just several weeks. This formula would be good if it had more Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and no LAA.
    I make. Vitamjn C serum with E and Ferulic acid and i use L Ascorbic and it works just fine  and is stable. I have NEVER had a problem with oxidation.  I have had my serum for up to 2 months and its been awesome.  L Ascorbic is pure vitamin C.  The derivative would have to be the ethyl ascorbic. The ethyl ks more stable on its own,  however yoj can stabalize L-Ascorbic very easily and NO good vitamin  C will stay good for years.  Its meant to be used up before ir oxidizes thats why you dont see it being  sold in huge bottles. Also are you keeping  in dark bottle and out of light and not constantly exposing to air?  Maybe remove one or more of the other derivatives.  
  • It’s ok for personal use, but don’t try to sell it. It’s a patent owned by L’Oreal. And it’s not stable in a long run even with ferulic and vitamin e. LAA serum stays without signs of oxidation for about 7 weeks in the fridge without ferulic and vit e.
  • Thanks for the comments, but I don't have problems with the oxidation with my vitamin c. The serum is clear and not going bad. My problem is I get darker during the day when I wear it. My question is I want to know what vitamin c and/or derivatives that are photosensitive during the day. Are there vitamin c  or derivatives that are better to wear during the day or better at night? I don't want my vitamin c to cause damage to my skin. 
  • Vitamin C will make your skin senstivie to sun in any form. As most of the active ingredients. I think the only way to deal with it is a very strong and reliable broad spectrum sun screen (both UVA and UVB).
  • But the reason you get darker is more likely related to L-dehydroascorbic acid or DHA which is the primary oxidation product of  ascorbic acid. That's just a Maillard reaction, not a damage to your skin.
  • SibechSibech Member, Professional Chemist
    @MPatt I would tend to agree that your vitamin C serum is turning into DHA. But for the sake of discussion, if you do not have issues with DHA formation your problem could be the acids.

    Depending on the pH all alpha-hydroxy acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. this also goes for the ferulic acid.

    So the best answer is: Add a sunscreen warning and put on sunscreen a little while after applying the serum.
    Dabbling Formulator — Qualified Cosmetic Safety Assessor — experienced in claim substantiation & EU regulatory affairs.
  • I do wear SPF 50 and I reapply every 2hrs. Where I live is sunny all year round.  I'm going to only wear my vitamin serum at night because it's not agreeing with my skin during the day. Thank you everyone. 
Sign In or Register to comment.