Hair pomade help

Hello! I am currently working on a formula (exact description below). There are three questions: the first is how to increase the fixation, now lipstick is excellent but weak fixation. The second question is whether I am doing that propylene glycol works here as a preservative. and the third thing you can add to achieve a matte effect. Thank you all in advance for your help.
Water - 60%
Ceteareth 25 - 25%
Vegetable gliceryn - 5%
Prolylenglicol - 2%
PVP - 2%
PEG 40 - 4%
Polisorbate 80 - 1%
Fragrant - 1%

Thanks all for your help.


  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen  for improve fixation you can increase the % of pvp  , propylene glycol is not preservative and finally you can increase the matte effect by decreasing the % of glycerine and propylene glycol.
  • edited October 2018
    @Fekher thank you,i'll try it, can you tell what i can use like preservative? 
  • I read that propylene glycol has preservative properties.
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen propylene glycol can improve preservation but it is not classified as preservative. You can use Cathon-CG as preservative.
  • @Fekher i need Kathon-CG also 1% like i use Propylene glycol, or smaller?
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen  for your case "rise on" you need just 0,1% .
  • @Fekher Thanks, i'll try it
  • If you're trying to achieve a matte finish, I would add kaolin clay. 
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @gnomebeard i don't think adding Kaolin clay is a good idea in hair pomade because it will make residu and dry hair.
    @BeardlyGentlemen have you improve your product?
  • @Fekher ;So far it has been possible to increase the fixation, but it is not yet possible with brilliance, it has reduced glycerin and propylene glycol to 2% of this and that. But the brilliance was only slightly less. Perhaps worth adding beeswax? Is it suitable for this product?
    @gnomebeard You think it can help? How i cam add it? Tell me how to add it? thanks
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    edited October 2018
    @BeardlyGentlemen that is good new the increasing of fixation , actually in presence of Ceteareth 25 i don't think you will able to reduce a lot shining effect . About clay i don't think that it will be good idea for hair pomade and it will may reduce the viscosity , fixation effect and even drying hair.
  • @Fekher ;do you suggest trying quantity cetearet 25? Is wax a bad idea too?
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen actually i find your % of cetearth is good and adding wax will may adding shining effect not decreasing it.
  • @Fekher И если вы уменьшите процентное содержание цетеарата на 25-10% и добавьте остаток с эмульсионным воском? возможно, вы можете добавить что-то еще, чтобы увеличить матовый эффект? смущенный. Спасибо за все советы)
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen translate it please  to be able to answer you.
  • Many companies add clay to pomade.  You just need to add it after you mix the water and oil phase together. If you add too much it will be dry.  Adding just enough will give you low shine and a bit of texture/volume.  This is my formula.

    Water Phase

    Water:  55%

    VG:  1%

    PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate: 4%

    Oil phase

    BTMS 50: 4%

    Ceteareth 20:  8%  

    Stearic Acid:  2%

    PEG 8 Beeswax:  4%

    PEG 40 HCO:  5%

    Avocado Oil:  2%

    kaolin clay:  12%

    dead sea clay:  3%

    Preservative: .5%

  • @Fekher ;And if you reduce the percentage of cetearate by 25-10% and add the residue with emulsion wax? Perhaps you can add something else to increase the matte effect? embarrassed. Thanks for all the tips)
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @gnomebeard actually your formula is something new for me thanks for that , however the fact of having oil phase will resist the drying effect of clay but the question 15% as total clay will not make residu in hair i doubt in that.
    @BeardlyGentlemen no decreasing the % of cetearth 25 will decrease the viscosity and the fixation effect so you should not increase it according to me. However  try to reduce MPG 40 to 2% and don't make glycerin and MPG for me it will be better. Attending your experience and your reply.
  • @Fekher What you meen MPG? Is it PEG? Do you recommend reducing the percentage of PEG and excluding glycerin? What can I replace it with then? Or even try without it?
  • @gnomebeard, Thank you for the formula, i'll try it and give you know how)
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen i suggess to delete glycerin and propylen glycol and reduce the % PEG 40 to 2.
  • @gnomebeard, @Fekher ;Tell me how to more can be called peg 8 beeswax, I can't find it in my country, found the information that it may be the same as the peg 400, but I think it's different things. You may prompt than can be replaced peg 8 in formula. Advance thank you.
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    edited October 2018
    @BeardlyGentlemen actually peg 8 and peg400 are clearly different , then it will be better and easier to work for your formula just try what i told you i guess you will have better resultats.
  • @Fekher ;I tried as you advised, the result is already better, there is very little shine after full drying, like natural hair, this is already what I wanted, but there is a question I cannot find the preservative that you advised me. Perhaps you tell me a couple more preservatives that I could use. Thank you in advance.
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    edited October 2018
    @BeardlyGentlemen actually i use Cathon-CG at 0,1 % if you can not find it try to find Acnibio at 0,3 % it is blend of parabens and phenoxyethanol.
  • I'll find next preservatives: Optifen Plus,Euxyl pe 9010, Euxyl K 300. What will be better for my formula? Thanks.
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @BeardlyGentlemen actually i have no idea about them make your own research to know wich is better.
  • FekherFekher Member, Professional Chemist
    @ted take a look
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