Petrolatum: Any plant derived or silicon based raws that can beat it at TEWL reduction wo clogging?

ZinkZink Member
edited September 2018 in Formulating
Petrolatum is great at reducing TEWL, but are there occlusive plant derived raws (e.g. hydrogenated waxes) or silicones (e.g. high CPS dimethicone) that can beat it at TEWL reduction without clogging pores / causing breakouts? (yes, comodogenicity is a controversial measure).

Personally I use petrolatum from time to time, I don't have anything against it, but if you could make something a bit thinner and less shiny, that reduces TEWL for longer, you could have a great moisturizer base on your hands. 

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  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    I haven't seen anything "beat it" as it is still the Gold standard. I do know that Floratech has released some data showing Moringa Butter is very close.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Thanks Mark, yes I've actually tried their Moringa Butter. It might be close, but it's more than twice as hard to apply being near solid, not sure it retains its performance diluting it in a formula. Plus it's quite expensive.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Well, you will not likely beat Petrolatum. The plant-based alternatives are good but Petrolatum is still the gold standard.

    Keep in mind that decreasing TEWL is only part of moisturization. Humectants and other materials assist also.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    You might try Hydrogenated Lanolin.  There are other natural Petrolatum alternatives.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • I just do research on moringa fatty acids, vitamins and other nutrients. I found that it’s substants are similar to Shea Butter, ... 
    it has very high % of oleic fatty acids
  • There are few articles described moringa very highly. I think marketing hypes. 
    I am not experiencing in this area

  • here is another study, great one,

    Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils


    what about making a balm using beeswax and shea butter + oil
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited October 2018
    @nicotiro Keep in mind that TEWL is only one aspect of moisturization.  Also, these studies are done with higher percentages of oils than would be generally used outside of an anhydrous product. If I needed to deliver an "anti-inflamatory" aspect (an OTC drug function when parsed that way) I would use many actives before an oil.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Floratech claims that their their Moringa butter performs about equally to petrolatum (2% being 10% away from 5% petrolatum at reducing TEWL 2 hrs post a SLS challenge), their Jojobaesters 60 is even closer.



  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Here's the strange thing about that Floratech comparison of Moringa Butter to Petrolatum.  Why would you compare Moringa Butter @ 2% load versus Petrolatum @ 5% load?

    You would think the more appropriate test would be Moringa Butter versus Petrolatum, both at 5% load.  And, then show the quantity of Moringa Butter that performs as effectively as 5% Petrolatum ... which presumably is somewhere around 3% or so.

    The only logic I can think of is that 2% Moringa Butter costs about as much as 5% Petrolatum.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @MarkBroussard - possibly, but I'd guess they ran the test at different levels and the only one that came out with compelling marketing results were the 2% ones. Studies published by raw material suppliers shouldn't be considered science. At best, they are directional information.

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    That certainly is possible.  I've always found that particular study to be strange, even from a marketing perspective since the results don't show that Moringa Butter is better than Petrolatum, just that is it almost as good as Petrolatum.

    @Perry, you are probably right ... perhaps they did not find any level of Moringa Butter that was equal to, or superior to, Petrolatum.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
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