Alpha arbutin

BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
in Formulating
I am doing some research at the moment into lightening gels and have two questions.
1) Is niacinamide actually effective (at say, 5%)?
2) Is it possible to prevent the oxidation of alpha-arbutin? IE, make a shelf-stable product?
Thanks!
Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.

Comments

  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    @Belassi my favorite topic. 1) There are studies that show that Niacinamide is effective, especially mixed with N-Acetyl Glucosamine (4% Niacinamide and 2% of NAG). I will lookup the study tomorrow, but it was a legit one. Additionally to this, I can say that I saw a great results as a user (not very scientific I know). 2) isn’t alpha arbutin stable? I read a research that suggested it’s perfectly stable for 16 months in water solutions. Does it change color when oxidizing?
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    Alpha Arbutin:
    https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12275 Alpha Arbutin is stable in water solution for 16 months. Stability in a formulation depends on pH. Suppliers say that should be formulated in a range from 4 to 6.5. 
    Niacinamide:
    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16029679
    Here is NAG and Niacinamide study
    https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(14)00104-2/fulltext
    It is Procter and Gamble. I will agree if you say that it might be biased.

    Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation:

    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3663177/
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    More on Niacinamide:
    https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/294/pcc-benefits-niacinamide/
    https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/1587/pcc-benefits-of-niacinamide/
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Thank you! Info very much appreciated.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    You are very welcome. I make a brightening serum with 2% Alpha Arbutine, 6% Niacinamide, 2% NAG and 2% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. It clearly works, but I don't know what makes it work (a combination of the ingredients or just one of them). I suspect that MAP doesn't do much at this concentration.
  • MajmanMajman Member
    @ngarayeva001 so alpha arbutin is both soluble in water and oil? Cos I intend using in a soap that has oil as part of its ingredients . Oh and for NAG, how do I get it please ,I intend formulating  a toner and serum and need the niacinamide to work effectively. 
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    Are you going to add alpha arbutin to a soap?
  • MajmanMajman Member
    @ngarayeva001 to black soap formulation.. African black soap 
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    You will waste a good ingredient. Soap has only  one function, to remove dirt. You will not get brightening properties of alpha arbutin by adding it to a soap. Use it in a serum instead. And make sure you adjust the pH. You can buy all ingredients discussed above in lotioncrafter.
  • MajmanMajman Member
    How do I adjust ph please? Kind of a beginner 
  • DtdangDtdang Member
    @Majman
    for adjust pH
    stirating with TEA or NaOH....
    diluting
    I like diluting
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    And citric acid to reduce the pH. Solution in water.
  • MajmanMajman Member
    Thanks @ngarayeva001
  • BiochemistBiochemist Member
    @Belassi @ngarayeva001 are either of you able to share the full text of the 2 Niacinamide studies @ngarayeva001 cited? ??
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited September 2018
    Remember when selecting whitening actives, there is no one size fits all. You need to design each product by to the demographic and their Fitzpatrick scores.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    @Microformulation I started a thread about it, but there are no responses. I read that some ingredients that work for caucasian skin are not effective for ethnic skin and vice versa. 
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Real ROUGH guidance.

    Hydroquinone (avoided) and Kojic Dipalmiate (less effective) work best in Western African skin types, Irritation is an issue.

    Alpha-Arbutin works best in an Indian subcontinent and the Asian Pacific area.

    Do the botanical actives work? I am skeptical, but I include them for label copy primarily.

    Keep it simple. If you need starting formulations for either compound, there are numerous starting formulations from the distributors.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MajmanMajman Member
    @Microformulation so kojic dip plus alpha arbutin for western African skin should be effective yeah? 
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    See above: "Alpha-Arbutin works best in an Indian subcontinent and the Asian Pacific area". 
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    I will add from my experience that alpha arbutin works on darker shades of caucasian skin (what is called olive skin).
  • MajmanMajman Member
    @ngarayeva001 so what works for African dark tones since hydroquinone isn't adviceable 
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    @ngarayeva001If you look at the scale, you are referring to a III/IV.



    @Majman Kojic acid dipalmitate is the most stable.  
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MajmanMajman Member
    @Microformulation for dark skin tones yeah?  More effective? 
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    @Majman I wouldn't even recommend making this product without experience. At all. The products used can be irritating. Do some Professional reading first.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    @Microformulation, what I find very confusing about Fitzpatrick scale, is to find my type in it, because on one hand I have never had a sun burn in my life (I lived in Atlanta, GA and had a lot of sun exposure) and tan easily, so my skin fits into "never burns tans easily", on the other hand I am not that dark (not even III). And alpha-arbutin works like a charm.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    @ngarayeva001It is really a rough scale and honestly, best interpreted by a Dermatologist. What it really demonstrates best is that there is not one "perfect" skin whitening Formulation that will work for everyone.

    Years ago I did a line of Asian Pacific focused whiteners based on Arbutin. DSM had a great starting Formula.

    Lastly, in the way these products are promoted, there is a difference in a "Whitening Product" {meant to whiten a large area} and "Brightening" {usually less area involved, addressing age-related pigmentation changes). If you are really making a "Brightening" product, it is a very different approach.

    So, the first question is who is my demographic and what am I trying to accomplish? (Whitening versus brightening).
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    @Microformulation, I am very interested in this topic. I will really appreciate if you can direct me to researches (if any). I heard that world brightening is a marketing term for the western markets, because whitenning associates with scary pictures of people who overused hydroquinone. And, I will use a generalization here saying, that people in western countries prefer to be tanned, so word "brightening" just sounds better than "whitening". 
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    @ngarayeva001 "just sounds better" is silly, especially when purposefully separating and delineating the differences assists in the proper design of a targeted Formulation. 
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited September 2018
    I am not arguing that the function of the product should be properly determined and defined when it's being formulated. I am saying you will not see many products marketed as "whitening" on the Western market, even if they are whitening by substance. If it says "whitening" on the label, it is either Asian product or a product made for Asian market (like Dior Snow line)
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Efficiency of ellagic acid and arbutin against melasma
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    @Belassi I read the study, but my only issue is statistical. Ten subjects and no follow up studies for a commercial use. Try doing a statistical analysis on that study and see what the result is.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ZivBAZivBA Member

    ngarayeva001  can you please send me a supplier for NAG, or the commercial name of the raw material?


    Thanks.

    Chief Chemist/ R&D Manager at SASA Cosmetics
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    @ZivBA it’s N-Acetyl Glucosamine http://www.lotioncrafter.com/n-acetyl-glucosamine-nag.html
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