Eye shadow formulation issue

Unknown Member
edited April 2018 in Starting a cosmetic line
Hello to everyone 
My name is Inès and i am new to this forum 
i have hesitate a lot before coming here because I am not a chemist. But her i am, hoping you will accept me.
Here is my little story.
I am french, and last year I moved on to Algeria to start a business. I wanted to import makeup, but the government has banned importation into the country.
So I decided to start manufacturing makeup because there is no brand of local makeup here.
I started to search for chemist specialized in cosmetology, but I have not been able to find someone; after a lot of researches i understood that cosmetology is not teached in algerian universities. So I had to try to find a fornulation by myself. I know it might seem crazy, but after 8 months of hard researches, I now know a lot about eyeshadow formulation. But sadly it is not enough to get a satisfying eyeshadow. 
If you guys could help me fix what is wrong with my formulation that would be amazing :) 
Here is the formulation, and how i process :

 Phase 1 : 
- Serecite Mica : 27%
- ‎Talc : 21%
- ‎*Color* + Silica : 30%
- ‎Zinc Stearate : 4%
- ‎Magnesium Stearate 2%

Phase 2 : 
- Dimethicone : 11% 
- ‎Caprylic : 5 %

• First I mix Phase 1. 
• ‎Then I add Phase 2.
• after blending it, ‎I put the mixture into a pan, making several layer and spray 90° alcohol on each layer. 
• ‎Then I press and let it dry

Here is my first issue : the eyeshadow looks nice, but when I swatch it, it doesn't slip on the skin. i get something very dry like the color has been absorb , even after a few days. I dont know if it is because of the alcohol ? Or maybe the formulation is wrong ? 

Second issue, when I add the phase 2, the color gets darker. 

Hope you could help me 

thanks :)


  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    edited April 2018
    regarding the first issue, are you using surface-treated pigments?
    if not, have a look at the "Treated Pigments Powders" section on this page:

    regarding the second issue, this always happens when liquids and coloured powders are mixed

    also for what it's worth, until a few years ago, cosmetic science was not generally taught in European universities either

    the practical knowledge was (and still is) where the manufacturing base lies, and in my view it's not something you can just learn out of a book; the vast majority of it is learned at the bench and in the factory
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • gld010gld010 Member
    edited April 2018
    Adding oils is always going to change the color, even if just a little bit. This is unavoidable and has been a thorn in my side since I started learning pressed powder formulation-- I think I get the color right, add oils, and bam, have to re-adjust or start over. I think you just need to be experienced enough to anticipate how the oil is going to change your colors. I'm definitely not there yet as my main focus has been on emulsions but I'm slowly getting there.

    For slip, add silica (5-15%). Take it out of the talc, keep your sericite binder where it is. For a creamy feel, try boron nitride as well.
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