Piroctone Olamine and Hops Extract as preservative used by MooGoo

Hi Everyone

MooGoo is a very popular brand in Australia and I think they distribute to 35 countries. I have been recommending and selling their products for years and customers love their products. Almost all their products use Piroctone olamine and Hops extracts as preservative. Some of their other products may also contain anisic acid or citric acid or vinegar which would help the preservation. 

http://moogoo.com.au/dry-skin/skin-milk-udder-cream.html

Does anyone know of this preservation system? type of hops extract? Ratios? Any comments? guidance?  Product Name?

I have never had a complaint against Moogoo at all. This preservation system doesn't get any resistance from customers or fellow health professionals. 
thanks in advance

Comments

  •  Piroctone olamine (Octopirox Clariant) we are familiar with works well by itself;Hops never tested bur think it is a gilded lily.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    I think the Hops is mostly marketing hype and the actual bulk of the preservative is coming from the Piroctone Olamine ... but, it's a good story.  I would suggest that the Hops is at best a preservative booster and would not pass a PCT on its own.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    They also had P Anisic Acid in there, a Dr. Straetmans preservative that can be used with care. Not on its own but in combination.

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Thanks for all the responses.

    As far as I know Hops is oestrogenic which has positive effect on skin health,  has anti- inflammatory properties and I think you are right Mark Broussard.

    After I posted this topic I found out about ulprospector.com and researched hops containing preservatives, yes it seems a preservative booster sorry to disagree Dr Bob but I don't think it is a gilded lilly.

    Moogoo have utilised hops from the beginning.

    Would a new company really waste cash and put in a raw material in their product that is relatively unknown in the marketplace for marketing hype?

    If they wanted marketing hype could they not have used echinacea for e.g., which was a vogue herb at the time with antimicrobial and anti fungal properties as far as what people were aware of. 

    How effective is marketing hype around an ingredient in a company that is making a debut into the market? Really interested to know now that the topic is raised.

    Even though it maybe a preservative booster has anyone used a hops extract for preservative purposes? Is it like a whole plant extract that is used for preservation or just an extract of an active principle in the plant? Do you know another company that may be using hops for its preservative functions?

    Thanks to anyone who might add more.



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  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist

    Would a new company really waste cash and put in a raw material in their product that is relatively unknown in the marketplace for marketing hype? 

    Yes, they would.  In fact, it happens all the time.  Argan Oil?  Morroccan oil? Panthenol, Micellar water...the list goes on.

    In fact, if you were a good marketer you would specifically look for an ingredient that isn't popular in the marketplace for launching your own line.  That way you can be first-to-market and get the advantage if it happens to become popular.  If you launch with Echinacea and are the 10th, 11th or x number brand that has it, you won't be different.  Companies that launch with already popular ingredients use a "fast follower" marketing strategy where they try to make quick sales usually at lower prices. 

    The reality is that none of these ingredients have much impact on the performance of the product. They are just marketing gimmicks.  Hops is a gimmick.  There is nothing special about it beyond it's story. Any chemical benefit you can get from hops can be achieved in a superior way using an alternative (probably synthetic) compound.

    I'm sure MooGoo makes fine products.  But hops is not the reason.   
  • Thanks Perry for the forum and the comment. Is there a marketing strategy book that covers more of the above that you would recommend?

    Regards
  • Totally agree with Perry and Hops is a gilded Lily as above stated existing not for functionality but marketing  Hype. " Hops is a gimmick.  There is nothing special about it beyond it's story. Any chemical benefit you can get from hops can be achieved in a superior way using an alternative (probably synthetic) compound."
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    From their website:

    "These work great at achieving their aim, but a lot of our “customers”prefer products without parabens.  We worked for over a year to develop a preservation system based on Hops Extract. All our creams have now been checked for preservative efficacy using the British Pharmacopeia test. We are very proud that we are probably one of the first companies to develop this natural and edible anti-bacterial system into our creams."

    The laughable thing is that despite the claim that they "worked for over a year to develop a preservation system based on Hops Extract" ... they then paired the Hops with ... P-Anisic Acid and Pirocotone Olamine! ... LOL!

    That shows you how much confidence they have in Hops as a preservative.  Really, it took them a year to figure out that combination.  SMH.

    The marketing hype strategy is simple ... just make up stuff that is bold and audacious, but not illegal, and then repeat it and repeat it and repeat it in all of your marketing communications and product materials.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • good one Mark:hope you didn't have too much of a problem in TX with storm.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    That's a good question. I don't think there is a specific beauty product marketing strategy book. 
  • Looks like a Book opportunity as neither do I.
  • Thanks great eye opening statements. AMAZING!!!

    Could anyone explain why money and research would go into an ingredient such as hops as secondary preservative. It costs money to bring a new product to market for a "gilded lilly" what has the manufacturers and suppliers got to gain from this especially within the context of your comments? Are they playing the game like MooGoo?

    Hops Strobile Zea-Botanicals® - 3271ZB

    Bio-Botanica, Inc.

    INCI Name: Propanediol (and) Aqua (and) Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract


    New! Conarom™ B Aromatic

    Ashland

    INCI Name: Phenylpropanol (and) Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract



  • I think I better start dreaming up my BS story in my marketing for a product yet to come.
  • Mark Broussard and Perry out of interest within your work does marketing departments ever brief you or work with you when formulating?  
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Hops have been know to have antimicrobial qualities for generations ... that's not new knowledge.  Companies are just trying to come up with new natural preservatives, of which Hops is one component of the blend.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Money goes into developing these types of ingredients because customers (cosmetic manufacturers) are asking for "natural" preservatives. Bio Botanica and Ashland know they can sell more Propanediol or Phenylpropanol if they throw in some Hops.

    This also gives them something new to promote.  Raw material suppliers are under the same pressure to come up with new products as cosmetic manufacturers. 

    @Derya - Yes, when I worked at a corporation R&D was involved in the product development process the whole way including the beginning "ideation" phase.  In fact, I participated in many market research studies & focus groups.

    But most product ideas came from what our marketing people saw was being successful in the marketplace. Right now Argan oil is a hot ingredient that everyone wants to use because it is one of the top sellers on Amazon & consumers know it.  There is nothing special about the ingredient except that other people successfully sell products with it in there.

    Cosmetic marketing is much less about actual performance than it is about a compelling story.  You can't convince people to buy from you by telling them your moisturizer uses Petrolatum or Mineral Oil.  Everyone uses those!  And the reason is because they work the best.  But people don't buy product because of performance....they buy because of the stories.

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Thanks for asking, Dr. Bob.  I was very, very lucky regarding the hurricane ... my biggest problem was that I could not buy Buccatini at the supermarket and I could not ship/receive samples & ingredients for a couple of weeks.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  •  Glad your OK too Mark Broussard. The hurricanes looked scary so much rain there and not enough here, everything is dry and it's the bush fire season. Thank you everyone for your enlightening comments,

    I don't need to dream up BS stories I have many Best Stories to talk about from 20 years experience with consumers.

    Thanks all.
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