Allantion issue

Hello Sages

I'm having some trouble with Allantion crystallisation in a cream.  I'm wanting to use it at the upper level 2%.  Cream is a simple o/w, oils @ 25%, polawax, cetyl alcohol, gs/p100s, preservative. No fragrance, does have EO (Rosemary) at 0.2%.
I have tried premixing the Allantion with water and dropping in at 40deg, still crystallising.  Have tried dropping in at room temp also, same issue.  I'm using a hand held shear mixer to mix.
Am I processing this wrong?  Or is there anything that can help with the crystallisation problem? 

Any suggestions would help. 
Many thanks

Comments

  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    edited April 2017
    Why do you think you need this high level of allantoin?
    Just because 2% may be the maximum level permitted by various authorities it does not mean that lower levels are ineffective.

    If you need to use high levels, a micronised form is available. This is used as a dispersion in the product rather than a solution.

    There are various allantoin derivatives available which may have a better solubility or improved properties which may be desirable in your formulation.

    Have a look at http://www.akema.it/allantoin.htm

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @ChicoB:

    You'd best drop your Allantoin content to 1.0% to 0.5% and drop it in at 55C to 50C.

    Two issues with your approach ... Allantoin is not very soluble, so up to 1% and you're generally good to go, but you need to add it in at 55C to get it to go into solution.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Thank you both.  @johnb I am interested with the Allantion at this level to test if it will benefit wound healing, but as you say it could be as effective at lower levels. I will look at Akema. 

    @MarkBroussard super advice, I will try this tomorrow. 

  • Betaine in the water phase may also help. Although incorporation at the rate tested in the link below is impractical. 

    http://www.in-cosmetics.com/__novadocuments/34292?v=635114705399500000 
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    The presence of urea in solution will greatly increase the solubility of allantoin.  You will just have to deal with urea in your formula then, not the worst thing for a skin-care product, eh?
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