Body lotion

Hello everyone about 1 year ago I found out that I have sensitivities to certain ingredients so I started making my own shampoo, body wash, body lotion. My original recipe for body lotion was: -Emulsan II (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)
        -Cetylalcohol 
        -Sheabutter
        -Water
        -D-Panthenol 
        -Silkprotein
        -Vit E+F
        -Pentylene Glycol

All worked well. I bought my ingredients in a store in Germany one year ago. Recently I went out of the Emulsan II and Pentylene Glycol, and now living in the US i couldn't find these so I tried to replace the two ingredients. Emulsan II Was replace with Ceteareth 20, and as my preservative instead of Pentylene Glycol I used Paraben DU. Two problems occurred; 1. My lotion is still liquified-I know Ceteareth is used for gels but it doesn't even turn to a gel like consistency. (And actually I would even like my lotion to be thicker than just gel-consistency) 2. I just happen to read that Ceteareth 20 inactivates Paraben DU. 

So my question is can I maybe pour a little Sepigel 305 in the cold mix to change the viscosity and make the lotion a little Thicker?

And my other question would be about preservatives; if I would use Sepigel 305 could I stick with ParabenDU? If not, I have three Preservatives to choose from- Germaben II E-or Suttocide A -or Liquid Germall Plus- which one would be best to use here? Just for Information I keep my lotion in the fridge at all times. Thank you :)

Comments

  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    by "Paraben DU" I presume you mean Paratexin DU (diazolidinyl urea), which is unaffected by ethoxylated surfactants

    you could use Sepigel to thicken your product, but it'd be a sticking-plaster solution: in my view, you'd be better off finding out the reason why switching emulsifiers has caused a loss of viscosity, and what steps you can take to thicken it again
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Okay mmhh thinking thinking I'm going to do some more reading about it.. I strongly assume I chose the wrong emulsifier since Ceteareth is supposed to be used for gelish textures. Would anyone happen to know if I can get Emulsan II here in the US? I googled and couldn't find anything. Please if anyone has more feedback or advice:) 
  • MakingSkincareMakingSkincare Member, Professional formulator
    edited February 2017
    Pentylene glycol is known to crash viscosity and it's not a broad spectrum preservative.  You need two emulsifiers - you only have one.  Pair up glyceryl stearate with ceteareth 20 - both are sold by lotioncrafter in the USA (use germall plus).  (Ceteareth 20 doesn't produce gels).  Emulsan II isn't sold by DIY suppliers in the USA unfortunately.  

    Do use the right amount of emulsifier: http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsifiers/
    http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsions-stability/

    Sepigel is sensitive to electrolytes so some proteins might not work with it.  For a thicker lotion you can also increase the level of cetyl alcohol.
    Jane Barber
    www.makingskincare.com
    www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
    Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
  • Thank you! Well for the last batch of lotion I actually didn't use the Pentylene Glycol (was out)/ instead I used Paraben DU. But I'm definitely going to try to pair emulsifiers and will use germall plus as a preservative. I like to experiment so I will also try out if I just need to use more cetyl alcohol to make it thicker and still pair it with Germall plus (instead of the Paraben DU). 
  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    There comes a point in formulation work where so many changes have been made to the product that has little or no resemblance to the original -  I think you have reached that.

    It should be time now to re-evaluate your whole concept and begin afresh.
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