Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier preferences

chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
in Advanced Questions
To the veteran formulators out there, and you know who you are, here's a query.  Given the vogue of using alkyl substituted polygyceryl esters as primary o/w emulsifiers - instead of the cheaper, better, but "scarier" ethoxylated ones - which have you had the most success with in emulsifying polar oils, such as veg/botanical triglycerides?  There are varying degrees of alkyl substitution creating varying, and in my opinion nebulous,  HLB values stated by suppliers.  Most veg oils are in the HLB range of 7.  What poly-gly emulsifier have you used, and what oil load was emulsified successfully? DO NOT tell me to try using the glucoside esters loved by the Skin Deep and Lotioncrafters crowd; frankly, they suck without using co-emulsifiers or stabilizing resins, and are over-priced, which even their manufacturers admit to. I purchase chemicals on the industrial scale, so feel free to cite manufacturers/distributors (NA).

Comments

  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    If you count me amongst your veteran formulators, I'm afraid I'm too veteran to have used these wonder products. :)
  • MakingSkincareMakingSkincare Member, Professional formulator
    edited February 2017
    If you're looking for DIY homecraft resellers: Natragem EW contains a polyglyceryl (Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate) and is sold by Penny Lane Organics (Original supplier: Croda). I have found it to be a stable, easy to use, "natural" emulsifier blend. 

    If you aren't bound by DIY suppliers Evonik sell some nice polyglyceryl esters, as does Gattefosse.  Do send me a private message and I'll recommend some.  
    Jane Barber
    www.makingskincare.com
    www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
    Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Jane, I know where to buy these surfactants. That is not the issue.  As I stated, I am an industrial user, and know Evonik, Protameen, Gattefosse, Lubrizol, Croda, etc., etc. very well. My query regarded anyone's real-time results from their use in o/w emulsions where the main oil load is polar, e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, branched esters...so, do you have any experience in this regard that you can share?
  • MakingSkincareMakingSkincare Member, Professional formulator
    Yes Matt, all the ones I mentioned above were stable with common vegetable oils.
    Jane Barber
    www.makingskincare.com
    www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
    Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
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