face cream

Unknown Member
edited March 2014 in Skin
hello all. I have been making face creams with Olivem 1000 . I would like to try Cetearyl alcohol and Cetearyl glucoside. In the US its sold together as "Sugar mulse" but here in the UK its sold seperately ,  i guess its not that popular as an emulsifier ....  Does anyone know  how much of each i should use? probably more glucoside than alcohol ?! im doing O/W wanting a pretty nice rich/thick but silky feel...  

Also i have heard that D-Panthenol doesn't absorb well into the skin under 5 % in O/W thicker cream that it absorbs better in a lighter lotion? truth or tale?

thanks :)  ( i'm almost embarrassed to ask these questions ... but i am no chemist! ) 


  • MakingSkincareMakingSkincare Member, Professional formulator
    You can find Cetearyl alcohol and Cetearyl glucoside sold together in the UK from phoenixproducts.co.uk - they call it Montanov 68.

    I've not heard that about panthenol. Chemistscorner and swiftcraftymonkey have some good posts on ingredients and penetration if you want to learn more.

    Jane Barber
    www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
    Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Do not ever be embarrassed asking for advice on this forum,chicagogirl.That's why Perry ( a Chicago boy like me) founded it.  We studied chemistry and physics so you didn't have to. FYI, the solvent concentration (water in this case) does affect penetration too.  Less water, less penetration.  Also, you may have a case here of less is more.  I don't think you need more than 1.0% dl-panthenol in a o/w lotion to be effective in softening the skin. Add a little urea and all the better. Cheers.
  • mikebavingtonmikebavington Member
    edited March 2014
    I have experiented with DL Panthenol, which is the product you are most likely working with, not D Panthenol. D Panthenol is twice as active as DL Panthenol, more expensive, and harder to acquire for kitchen formulators such as you and I.

    Anyways, the more DL Panthenol you use, the more of a 'sticky' after-feel your formula will exhibit.  I have tried 20%, 15%, 10%, 8%, 5%, 3%, 2%, 1% and 0.5% DL Panthenol in a water based formula in the past. As Matt suggested, and in my experience, all concentrations over 1% felt 'sticky' to me, or not fully absorbed. Remember, the water in your formula will evaporate after being applied to the skin (over time) and the remaining ingredients on the skin will feel somewhat like they did before being added to the emulsification. Think of colloidal oatmeal in water as an example and how it leaves a 'powdery' feel on the skin after the water has evaporated or Aveeno and how it can feel slightly powdery after application.

    I have read that Propanediol, when added to another humectant (in this case, DL Panthenol), increases the moisturization of the skin as compared to using one humectant only and excluding the Propanediol. You might want to dissolve the DL Panthenol in Propanediol first and add the combination to your formula.
  • PriyaPriya Member
    Hello all, I am formulating cream with 5%, 7%., 10% colostrum powder. But my formulation is not stable. colostrum has its own type odour cause of no more perfume retained in formula even in 1% & very important query is that the formulation turns to yellow with unpleasant smell after a weak.

    Pls help me to solve this query.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    @Priya - we're trying to keep things so that each discussion is separate. Since your question has nothing to do with the original question, please re-post this in a new discussion.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • PriyaPriya Member
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