The best opacifiers for concealer and foundations - HYPE VS EFFECT

ZinkZink Member
edited March 2014 in Formulating
Titanium Dioxide Effect :D Hype :(
Talc Effect :D Hype :( Your vagina will get cancer.
Zinc Oxide Effect :)  Hype :|
Calcium Carbonate Effect :/ Hype :|

What else can work well as opaque, white, opacifiers in foundations/concealers? As you can see in my little effects vs hype chart, I haven't found any that get good hype AND are effective - a sad trend I know. Any suggestions for a hype sensitive formulator? Do certain starches work?


Comments

  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Mica, Sericite Mica, Kaolin, various precipitated silicas and silicates, Barium Sulfate (blanc fixe), calcined clay(s).
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Boron Nitride, also microspheres made of various materials.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Bismuth Oxychloride, Alumina Trihydrate, nylon powder, cotton fiber, various starches and flours, 

    How exotic do you want to get?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • ZinkZink Member
    As unexotic as possible, calcium bentonite should work well then? Any other options you would recommend in particular for a somewhat thick concealer? I'm sure all of those aren't equivalent! :)
  • Many things will give you cancer. If you avoid all present and known cancer causing substances to date, you will eventually live long enough to get cancer from something else that is yet to be known as a cancer causing agent.

    Regarding talc, as long as you dont apply talc to your genitals, you shouldnt get any form of vaginal cancer. Plus, any talc distributed in the U.S. has been asbestos free for decades. And I think people should be more concerned about the number of different sex partners they have throughout their lives as it pertains to increased cancer risks as opposed to fretting about talc powder in cosmetics.
  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    @mike hehehehe good one
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Since you are not able to use the most efficient opacifiers, you will have to use much more of the less efficient ones. (at least 2 - 3 times as much) As a result, you will need to consider skin feel of the powders.

    If you can afford it, the Boron Nitride has the best skin feel, then the Bismuth Oxychloride, then the micas.

    Calcium Bentonite is probably going to feel like rubbing sandpaper on your skin.

    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • You can use Styrene/Acrylate co-polymer also as an Opacifying agent.
  • ZinkZink Member
    You'd be shocked to know how many women use concealer on their vaginas, @mike !

    @Bobzchemist thanks for the explanation, what about just using more zinc oxide replacing Ti diox? Boron nitride looks promising, I can afford it, what particle size would be good for a concealer? And how does it compare to Titanium dioxde as an opacifier?

    @cosmochem interesting, know any good sources to get it from?
  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    edited March 2014
    @Zink Antara from Ashland, Acusol OP 301 and 305 from Univar (check the parent company though as Univar is a distributor in my region) and so on and so forth.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    @zink, you can absolutely use zinc oxide to replace TiO2. Make sure you get a pigmentary grade, though, since many of the sunscreen grades try to minimize opacity, and you are trying to maximize it.

    I happen to think that Boron Nitride is awesome, (but then I'm biased since I was one of the people who introduced it to the cosmetic industry). You can use any particle size you want, but since it is a platelet-type material with a high aspect ratio, if you go too small, you will loose all of the platelet slip.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Concealers on that private part? I learned something new today!
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    @milliachemist, Acusol OP 301/305 are from Dow (formerly Rohm & Haas) - they only sell it in IBCs, so unless you're using huge amounts of it you're better off sticking with Univar
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    @Bill you would be amazed to know that they are selling the same product to me in 120 kg drum, though I am surely surprised at the quantities you have mentioned.
  • ZinkZink Member
    @Bobzchemist great advice, currently I have this: USP grade, particle size 0.2-1 µm http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Zinc-Oxide-p196.html not sure whether it's pigmentary grade? Where do you get yours?
    What kind of usage rate is typical if say using Zinc Oxide and Boron Nitride together? (assuming there is something to be gained over using only ZnO) :)






  • Zink:

    The greater the difference between the refractive indices of the cosmetic vehicle and the pigment/filler, the higher the opacity.  That's why hollow microspheres work - the air in the middle of the bubbles gives so many layers that light must go through and through so many dissimilar indices of refraction that the coating becomes more opaque.  Also, opacity increases as the thickness of the layer, and the higher the filler loading, but we'll ignore those for now.

    A paint chemist might use a combination of TiO2 and calcined clay to take advantage of the spacer effect of the clay between particles of TiO2.  There's also a ceramics opacifier that is a mix of titanium and strontium pigments, but I don't know anything about health effects.

    Ken Wiener
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    @milliachemist sorry, I meant that Dow/Rohm & Haas only sell them in IBCs - if we've wanted less than 500kg we've always bought it from Univar
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
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