Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating best natural oil rheology modifier?

  • best natural oil rheology modifier?

    Posted by arastellar09 on April 17, 2025 at 4:03 pm

    I’ve read a lot about sucrose esters and their —

    1) gel-to-milk upon contact with water ability

    2) high internal phase emulsifying ability(80-90%) forming O/W gels

    question 1 :-

    what should be the ideal ratio among these ingredients to make a standard sucrose ester HIPE emulsifier? : Glycerin, Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Sucrose laurate, Sucrose stearate

    ( 45%, 40%, 4%, 9%, 2%)—> ????? is this okay?

    (these percentages are just for the emulsifier and not the final oily gel product!)

    question 2 :-

    what if I don’t want to make oil gel and just want to thicken my hair serum a bit? is trihydroxystearin or dextrin palmitate going to work? how is their action mechanism different from sucrose esters?

    Aniela replied 2 weeks, 3 days ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Aniela

    Member
    April 24, 2025 at 2:42 am

    question 1 :

    I’ve made such an emulsifier based on LisaLise’s article a few years ago. Her proposed formula is:

    Glycerin 50-55%

    Oil of choice 20-25%

    Sucrose stearate HLB 15 10%

    Water 10%

    question 2 :

    I’m not familiar with trihydroxystearin or dextrin palmitate, but to thicken my hair-serum/other oil serums, I usually go with cera bellina.

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