Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Lotion Turning Yellow on Stability

  • Lotion Turning Yellow on Stability

    Posted by Iwana on October 4, 2021 at 4:27 pm

    Hi Guys 
    I really learnt a lot from here reading post and all. I would really need some help with my lotion.
    I formulated this lotion which my boss finally liked.
    After keeping it on stability at 50 degrees Celsius it turned Bright yellow from white. The ingredients I added in it are as follows 
    Distilled water 76.3
    Glycerin 3
    Xanthan Gum 0.3
    Spemax Zen 0.5
    Olivem 1000 2.0
    Arlacel 165 1.0
    Crodamol SS 0.5
    Sensolene Care DD 1.5
    Capuacu Butter 1.0
    Tucuma Seed butter 2.0
    E gas 1.5
    Cetyl Alcohol 2.00
    Jojoba oil 2.0
    Macademia Oil 1.0
    Vit E 0.10
    Gransil Si WHA 3.00
    Euxyl 9010 0.8
    Sharomix A24

    As per me I fell like it could be the Vit E And Xanthan Gum. I also think the Jojoba oil but that ingredient my boss does like I dont mind substituting it I was think to CAPRYLIC CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES or COCONUT ALKANES (AND) COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE.
    I need this to pass the stability testing soon. Any help in formulating will do .
    Thank you in advance!

    graillotion replied 2 years, 4 months ago 10 Members · 24 Replies
  • 24 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 4, 2021 at 7:07 pm

    Any observation for 40C?   50C is  pretty high.  

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 4, 2021 at 7:15 pm

    Same Result 

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 4, 2021 at 7:16 pm

    INCI NAMES
    Crodamol SS is Cetyl Esters
    Sensolene Care DD is Lauryl Olivate
    E gas is Glycol Stearate, Stearamide AMP
    Gransil Si WHA is Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Aqua (and) Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Decyl Glucoside
    Sharomix A24 is Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Polyquaternium-80 (and) Didecyldimonium Chloride. Sharomix™ AM 24 by Sharon Laboratories is an odor- & color-free preservative.

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 1:46 pm
  • Iwana

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 4:00 pm

    Yes i did read that one it did say that the shea butter , sorbitol or haluronic acid could be the cause .
    I am think one of my butters only maybe.

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 4:01 pm

    Thank you so much for you help though

  • oldperry

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 4:03 pm

    What I would suggest you do is a knockout experiment.
    https://chemistscorner.com/do-you-know-the-fastest-way-to-become-an-expert-cosmetic-formulator

    Now, in your formula you wouldn’t have to make a separate batch to knock out every ingredient. I would say you could test 

    Arlacel 165 1.0
    Crodamol SS 0.5
    Sensolene Care DD 1.5
    Capuacu Butter 1.0
    Tucuma Seed butter 2.0
    E gas 1.5
    Jojoba oil 2.0
    Macademia Oil 1.0
    Gransil Si WHA 3.00

    So make a series of batches where you don’t add one of those ingredients. (replace the missing volume with water). Then see which one turns brown.  The batch that doesn’t turn brown is the ingredient that is causing the problem. 

    Knockout Experiments for Cosmetics - The Fastest Way to Become an Expert Formulator

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 4:05 pm

    Yes i going to be doing that today itself and put them all on stability to check which one is the culprit.
    Thank you so much

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 8:08 pm

    Once you do your knockouts….please post back…who was the culprit.

    Aloha.

  • bill_toge

    Member
    October 5, 2021 at 10:11 pm

    my prime suspect is stearamide AMP - amines are terrible for discolouring both over time and at high temperatures

  • pharma

    Member
    October 6, 2021 at 4:38 am
    @Bill_Toge My first thought was also AMP but then I realised that it’s in amide bound form and should be pretty stable… should at least in theory.
    @Iwana Do you have a picture of the yellow to get an idea of how yellow you’re talking?
    There’s nothing in your product which should turn yellow but should and does are two different things when it comes to more or less natural multicomponent mixtures meeting water, oxygen, heat, and time.
  • pattsi

    Member
    October 6, 2021 at 6:28 am

    Interesting, it’s bright yellow, I have only seen pale yellow or bronw-ish of source.

  • oldperry

    Member
    October 6, 2021 at 12:56 pm

    @Pharma - When working with raw materials, it’s difficult to know what the chemical makeup actually is. Just because a supplier calls something one thing doesn’t mean that is what they are actually delivering. This is why I encourage experiments like knockouts to figure out what’s going on.

  • J_Sig

    Member
    October 6, 2021 at 3:36 pm

    I am almost positive it is the the butters you have in the formula.  Those particular rainforest butters are extremely susceptible to oxidation and will turn your formula yellow over time, even at RT. In a 50C oven, obviously that will be accelerated. You may even notice an odor change. 

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 6, 2021 at 3:53 pm

    I threw out the batch that turned yellow but to be more specific it was a bright yellow color.
     I am not sure if the smell was bad at least to me i felt it was the same. The butter smell was strong little more than before.
    Yes ill will let you’ll know who the culprit ! I put the batches in the oven yesterday.

  • abdullah

    Member
    October 7, 2021 at 3:50 am

    At 8% butter my emulsion was yellow but at 1% it was white. 
    Also emulsion with mustard oil was yellow

  • Iwana

    Member
    October 26, 2021 at 1:01 pm

    So my lotion batches are still on Stability at 50degrees C and non of them have turned yellow this time now.
    I thought most would and only one would not.
    I have no clue who the culprit is now !
    I guess Ill make the whole batch together again and see what happens.

  • Iwana

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 4:21 pm

    Guys I was wondering why but there was a lot of water like on the top of all the jars.
    It this correct after putting on stability at 50C for one month?

  • oldperry

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 6:15 pm

    As far as water goes, yes that is probably condensation. 50C for 1 month is pretty extreme testing. Typically, 45C is the max used for that long of a time.

  • Iwana

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 8:16 pm

    So has it passed Stability?

  • oldperry

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 9:37 pm

    Well, only you or your company can decide whether something passes stability testing or not.

    Generally, a product is considered stable if it maintains characteristics within a specified range for that characteristic.  For example, if the pH range of a product is set at 4.5 - 5.5, a product can be considered stable if the pH remains within that range for the length of time of the stability test.

  • Iwana

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 10:00 pm

    Normally In lotion Formulation do the lotion become watery and like this. And still pass ?

  • oldperry

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 10:28 pm

    No, you set a viscosity specification.  Then you measure the viscosity over time.  Ideally, the viscosity will remain unchanged (or changed within specific limits).  If it falls outside the limits then the product is unstable.

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 9, 2021 at 11:03 pm

    Iwana said:

    Normally In lotion Formulation do the lotion become watery and like this. And still pass ?

    Can you clarify….watery?

    Did all contents become watery….or you got something that looked like sweat…or condensation on the top of the product…or sides of the bottle, but the balance of the product maintained viscosity?

    Maybe a picture would help.

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