Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating with antioxidants and vitamins - questions.

  • Formulating with antioxidants and vitamins - questions.

    Posted by mikeylamar on September 13, 2021 at 12:31 pm
    I’m trying to create a heavy lotion for my extremely dry, damaged skin. Vitamin c for example is something I want to include in my formula but I know it’s really hard to make stable, especially with organic ingredients (Aloe Vera and Colloidal Oats).
    Here are options I came up with:
    1. Use [this] multi vitamin complex for lotions. The multivitamin contains Vitamin E, B5, C, B3 and B6 (Niacinamide; Calcium Pantothenate; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Tocopheryl Acetate; Pyridoxine HCI; Maltodextrin; Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate; Silica).
    **  I like the multivitamin because because it also contains niacinamide, something I can’t source in the UK and something I want to include.

    Is there anyway to know the ratios of each ingredient? I have reached out to Gracefruit for a response but someone has mentioned that this is very similar to lotioncrafters* [Vitaplex]. After digging through the Vitaplex’s [SDS] and Gracefruits [SDS], do you think that this is the same product?

    ** As it contains also Vitamin C, will this be hard to formulate with. I’m wondering if the Vitamin C here is stable enough to simply just add it into my formula with no extra consideration. It’s a derivative

    ** As this contains silica, I worried this might be an irritant to my sensitive skin.

    ** In the Vitaplex SDS, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate equates to 5-10% of the composition. Assuming I use 2% in my main formula, this only equates to 0.1-0.2% Vitamin C. At this amount, it sounds pointless to include it.

    1. Use Vitamin E / green tea extract in the lotion and buy l-ascorbic acid separately, mixing it in my lotion when I’m applying it to my skin or making a DIY Vitamin C spray.
    ** My only concern is that I might add too much Vitamin C when applying it separately, causing my skin ph to be too acidic or not adding enough vitamin c.
    ** Is vitamin E and green tea extract easy to formulate with or do you have to handle it as carefully as Vitamin C.*
    This is my formula
    Water
    * Distilled water 55%
    * Glycerin 5%
    * Aloe Vera 10%
    Oil
    * Sunflower oil 13%
    * Cetearyl Alcohol and PEG20 Stearate Emulsifier
    5%
    * Stearic acid 4%
    * Petroleum jelly 3%
    Cooldown
    * Vitamin E / green tea extract/ grapefruit multi vitamin - 2%?
    * Colloidal oats 1%
    * Allantoin 1%
    * Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin preservative 1%
    Side questions
    * Is it even worth me leaving colloidal oats in my formula as this it’s [raw colloidal oats] and not the hydrolysed protein. I assume it will just stay on the top layers of my skin and not absorb properly. Also, if you look at the product description of the webpage, the recommended usage rate is 5-10% which seems strange… The recommended usage for hydrolysed oats usually falls between 1-5%, and 2% is often high for a commercial avena lotion. This makes me doubt the efficacy and the molecular size of the oats and I’ll most likely remove it from my formula if you guys don’t think it’s good.
    I don’t have much experience with vitamin c.
    * After using l-ascorbic acid, my face should become acidic right? Do I need to use a toner to balance the PH on my skin or can I leave it as is.
    * When comparing Vitamin E and green tea polyphenols. Which one has better antioxidant properties for attacking free radicals. Vitamin C should work better in conjunction with vitamin E but how doe green tea and Vitamin C work together. Instead of adding vitamin E to the lotion, I might just create a DIY serum and add the vitamin E + C together.
    * Will the preservatives be strong enough to handle both the Colloidal Oats and Aloe Vera together.
    Thanks for taking the time out to read my post, I would appreciate any kind of help!
    mikeylamar replied 2 years, 6 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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