Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating HYDROVANCE AKA Hydroxyethyl Urea … any formulating tips???

  • HYDROVANCE AKA Hydroxyethyl Urea … any formulating tips???

    Posted by graillotion on August 25, 2021 at 5:14 am

    I want to possibly include Hydroxyethyl Urea (in the form of liquid Hydrovance) in an upcoming formula, and wanted to know if there was anything that needed to be done in conjunction with including Hydrovance in a formula.  After perusing ULP…about the only thing I could find was….toss in some triethyl citrate (which I keep on hand), to reduce possible pH drift.

    Anything else I need to know about this ingredient?  I do not intend on using it as a sole humectant (high rate), maybe 1-3% range.

    vitalys replied 2 years, 7 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • vitalys

    Member
    August 25, 2021 at 8:39 am

    @Graillotion I used to work with this ingredient and I didn’t find either any advantages or positive effects on skin (moisturizing). Indeed, it requires some TEC, otherwise a product will release some Ammonia smell fairly quickly. 1-3% won’t be suffice to achieve any significant response from the skin. You need at least 7-10% of the solution (5% of dry substance) to be efficient. I would use a regular Urea instead, which really works perfectly well starting at 3-5% especially, if you combine it with some other moisturizing constituents. 

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