Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Fresh citrus scent

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  • Fresh citrus scent

    Posted by Syl on August 20, 2021 at 9:47 pm

    Hello,
    I make conditioner bars that contain: Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, Stearyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Lactic Acid.

    I can’t seem to be able to find a nice citrus scent to enhance their appeal. I use plant-derived fragrances of coconut, rose, or honeysuckle, and they smell great.

    Unfortunately, the citrus orange or grapefruit plant-derived fragrances from my supplier are lackluster. I tried D-Limonene and essential oils (not strong enough even at a concentration above 2 percent). I made a mixture of all 3, still not great. I have encountered natural shampoo and conditioners that have a terrific natural citrus scent. If you have any knowledge, I would appreciate your help with this subject.

    Thanks
    Syl (Northern California)

    Syl replied 2 years, 7 months ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • graillotion

    Member
    August 20, 2021 at 10:52 pm

    Are you asking for recommendations on good FO’s with a citrus scent?

    Or 

    Are you asking how to make a good citrus scent naturally?  (This in inherently difficult… nature of the beast.)

    @RedCoast

  • Syl

    Member
    August 20, 2021 at 11:59 pm

    Well, at this time I will take anything. I understand how difficult citrus scents are and how they easily vanish.

  • justaerin

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 12:51 am
    Fragrance is a deeep well. I’ve just been dipping my feet in because I needed another expensive hobby or something.
    Simplest, if they have one that suits you: Wholesale supplies is carrying fragrance blends that conform to the ISO standard for natural.
    There are fragrance manufacturers that specialize in natural material fragrance. Palette Naturals has a citrus accord, but it isn’t really a whole fragrance.
    Another option would be to go full DIY and blend a small amount of a longer lasting natural aroma chemical like valencene or Sinensal with essential oils. There are a few perfume ingredients suppliers, the equivalent of lotioncrafter or Making Cosmetics, that sell these. There are a couple of good suppliers, and also some less trustworthy ones. Send me a PM if you want my almost entirely gossip based opinion on them, as I’ve only ordered from one myself.

  • graillotion

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 2:29 am

    Syl said:

    Unfortunately, the citrus orange or grapefruit plant-derived fragrances from my supplier are lackluster. I tried D-Limonene and essential oils (not strong enough even at a concentration above 2 percent). I made a mixture of all 3, still not great. I have encountered natural shampoo and conditioners that have a terrific natural citrus scent. 

    First question.  Where are you getting your citrus EO’s from?  This is an industry where most of the small sellers….are selling adulterated product…which simply can not perform, even if it wanted to.

    2nd… have you found an EO citrus combination….where if it were strong enough… you like it?  (I scent lotions with it at .6% and they are quite nice…granted shampoo and conditioner…you might want stronger.  A lotion should not double as a perfume….IMHO.)

    What do the inci’s show….on the ‘natural’ shampoo….for what they used to scent it?

    There are techniques for ‘fixing’ EO’s….but you absolutely have to start with real EO’s to begin with….not the diluted ones that many people are ending up with.

  • Syl

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 4:19 am

    I use natural fragrances from NaturesFlavors. They are specialized so I assumed they would have a good product.

    This is the INCI I found from a fancy natural body care company.
    Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil, Tocopherol, Limonene, Linalool, Citral.  I guess I could try to make something similar.

  • graillotion

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 6:06 am

    Sorry…I totally misunderstood you.  When you said natural…I thought you were using EO’s.  What that website sells…..who knows???  No documentation.

    If you elect to use EO’s, I think you are aware that the citrus EO’s are the most volatile.  They can give a brief moment of delightful scent, but even with some manipulation….won’t stick around for long.

    I will include an example of what an EO supplier should provide.  This particular supplier sells a lot of the EO’s that eventually get broken down into those tiny bottles (and usually watered down (with jojoba)), and sold around the net.

  • redcoast

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 6:29 am
    What about bergamot EO? (Make sure it’s bergapten-free, though.)
    Alternatively, you can use bergamot fragrance oil (obviously synthetic), which is a close enough substitute.
  • Syl

    Member
    August 21, 2021 at 1:43 pm

    Thank you, I will stick with EO from NewDirections.

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