I have been given a set of ingredients from a customer and asked to turn it into a stable (and aesthetically pleasing) cream.
They have requested using EcoMulse or my own combination of Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Sodium Steroyl Lacylate, and based on some research about EcoMulse, it seems my pH must stay at or above 5.0. I also have no experience using this emulsifier blend, and frankly, would love some feedback as to its strength, in reality, for an oil load like this (15-20%) and if I can add a co-emulsifier such as GSC to feel better about it.
They have also requested use of Phenylpropanol-- I see a nice combo from MakingCosmetics with ethylhexylglycerin and my rep from Schulke has one, Sensiva PA 40, with caprylyl glycol. Anyone have much experience with these? I could not find much detailed information about phenylpropanol's effective microbial action.
Since I do not know much about phenylpropanol and I am dealing with a pH (5.0-6.0) above the truly effective levels for most organic acids (as far as i know), what would be a sufficient way to boost this product's preservation? I can request to use parabens, but I would not be surprised if that response is a big, fat "no".
Here is the initial formula I have drawn up based on the set of ingredients I was given:
Xanthan Gum 0.1%
Methyl Salicylate 3%
Sunflower oil 2%
Shea Butter 2%
Jojoba oil 5%
Hempseed oil 2%
Mixed Tocopherols 0.5%
Rosemary essential oil 0.1%
Lavender essential oil 0.1%
Devil's claw extract 0.1%
Comfrey extract 0.1%
Arnica oil 0.1%
Phenylpropanol EHG 0.5%
Citric Acid solution (50%) q.s.
Every response is appreciated! Thanks.