Titanium Dioxide for rinse-off product

vhogiono

Hi everyone, I'm trying to formulate a body wash which will look milky. Can you advise me with below questions:?

1. I was suggested to use non-ionic emulsifier such cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol and incorporate into the bodywash mixture with hot process. However it always fails, and resulting a sediment/layer. Do any of you have similar experience?

2. I will not use Glycol Stearate (pearlizer), because what I want is milky, not pearly liquid. Therefore after so many trial, I found Titanium Dioxide is good to give me this appearance. Is titanium dioxide not common to be use in a body wash? what is the impact in the long run? (Will it separate after several months?).

*Other successful trial, is by adding real milk powder, such coconut milk powder. However this as strong aroma which is not pleasant to the final product.

Thank you guys, I hope to hear your advise on using titanium dioxide in a bodywash

Warmth regards,
Vincent

chemicalmatt

The opacifier/pearlizer to use here will be the mica-based ones, not TiO2. You will still need to add some yield value to your body wash system to keep that in suspension. Too many options to list here for that job but Polyquaternium-10, hydroxymethyl cellulose, cationic guar come to mind.

vhogiono

@chemicalmatt thanks for your insight. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Bodywash is majority from water, and for that reason I shouldn't use mica-based colorant right? (mica is oil soluble only).

Secondly, does adding yield value to keep the suspension means adding rheology modifier, such xanthan gum, or guar gum?

I see many cleanser (especially face cleanser, which is more like a paste) use titanium dioxide. In this case I'm assuming if titanium dioxide is also fine for bodywash product. Is this wrong? I'm reading some reference like as below:
https://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/cleansing/products/titanium-dioxide-in-cleansers.htm

Thank you again for your reply.

RDchemist15

For body washes to get an opaque, white background without a milky appearance I use Opulyn 301 (INCI: Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (and) Aqua). Water soluble, relatively cheap/easy to work with, and doesn't require suspension aid. Some people just won't like the name

vhogiono

@RDchemist15 Thanks for your feedback. I can't find that trade name/ingredient in my country. I believe the name won't be a problem because consumer habits here do not really check for the ingredient list.

Actually, I tried Acrylates Copolymer (I don't know the trade name because retailers here just sell as it is). I tried up to 2%, and it gives slight bluish opaque (still translucent). I believe this helps particle suspension as well, but it just won't give that opaque/milk-looking appearance. 

Is real milk (supermarket full cream cow milk) can be use in a bodywash? Will it stale easily and shorten my product life?

Thank you so much  

RDchemist15

@vhogiono Just be aware Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer is not equivalent in appearance or function to Acrylates Copolymer. It is not a thickening or suspension agent and doesn't require neutralization. Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer looks like essentially white/opaque background that is probably adequate in the 0.5-1% range. It does, however, have that slight bluish tinge that can be seen at the top where its thin.

I've also done body washes using milk (goat not cow in my case) and it does work but be prepared to use more and as a result a combination of highly robust and effective preservatives(DMDM, isothiazolones, etc). It will also have an accompanying odour which some may or may not mind. 

vhogiono

@RDchemist15 Thanks so much for your insight.

About acrylates copolymer, yes I'm using only "Acrylates copolymer" which mean it is not Opulyn 301. Does it need neutralization? Actually it serve no purpose in my bodywash, but since it gives that murky/opaque appearance I decided to add 1%. (But again, I just add it into my water phase without neutralization). However this is my last options, as this formula still does not provide opaque appearance enough.

And for case where I add cow milk, I use 0.6% DMDM Hydantoin only for my preservative. (I'm following european maximum limit). Do you think its enough? should I add Potassium sorbate for anti-fungal effect?

What I understand is, when we add powder (particle), we need some rheology modifier such gums to help suspend it. However, in this case I'm using liquid drinking milk (from supermarket) at 10% to get the full opaque color that I want. Is this liquid cow milk still means particles that need to be suspend? Do you think this is way too much?

What do yo think if I use titanium dioxide to give opaque appearance? Does it makes no sense in bodywash?

Really appreciate your help and sorry for so many questions

Shams

titanium dioxide will give a white rub effect on the skin when used, that's what i saw when i earlier attempted doing this.
Why not use the pearliser but at higher concentration. I made an opaque face wash with Euperlan PK 1200 at 10%..not pearly

vhogiono

@Shams interesting. I never tried pearlizier at 10%. My max was around 5%, and even with that amount its really hard to thicken it. Salt will not be enough to help thicken even it consist of SLES, and CAPB at the right amount. I will try 10% then with the help of other thickening agent such PEG150 Distearate. 

By the way, this is for bodywash (rinse off), so white rubbing effect should not be seen. 

Thank you

Bax65

@vhogiono - try looking for Euperlan PCO. It is a Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer combined with a share of surfactant making it easier to dispers. It does not require a stabilizer in a formulation and definitely gives you the milk effect. No pearlshine at all.
TiO2 is likely to separate with time - although this will take long because it has very small particle size.
MICA is as well an option. You just need to disperse it. It doesn't need to be solved - and it also doesn't dissolve in oil. I mean: It is basically stone... Never heard this is soluble in oil...
Anyway - in case you want to work with the mentioned Acrylates Copolymer this shall help you stabilize any kind of dispersed particles like the TiO2 and MICA.

For the Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer you don't need stabilizer as the density of the polymer is close to that of the formulation which significantly reduces the risk of floating or settlement.

ketchito

@vhogiono Using fatty alcohols is an interesting aproach (similar to what P&G does in theis shampoos). The issue there is that you first need to form a lamellar gel (premix) with the fatty alcohols, surfactant and water, and then add it to the main mixture. The ratios of the premix should be very narrow and the process as well requires some particula equipment. You could check some P&G patents for that matter.

Glycol stearate (GS) is widely used both as opacifier and pearlizer. The difference is the manufacture of both: while in opacifiers you have GS randomly arranged, in pearlizers you have very organized sheets that effectively reflect light (due to a controlled mixing and cooling process). Lamesoft TM Benz if a good GS based opacifier, if you want to give it a try.    

vhogiono

@Bax65 I would really love to try Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, but i just can't find it here in my region. As for Mica colorant i will try it, but usually I use it to color candle as it mix well with wax/oil substance.

vhogiono

@ketchito Yes, this is what I'm trying numerous time but keep failing. I tried to mix Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol from 1-5% range in hot process to my surfactant mix (basically SLES and CAPB), however when it cools down, the fatty alcohol just separate and turn to lumps. I guess its not that simple to process this. I will keep trying and update the result. Thanks

ketchito

@vhogiono You can check this patent from P&G: https://data.epo.org/publication-server/document?iDocId=5381444&iFormat=2. The ratio of fatty alcohols and surfactant in the premix is also crucial. In the patent, they made the premix with aprox. 10% SLES, 7% stearyl alcohol, 4% cetyl alcohol, and the rest as water. I did it some time ago, and it went well (using a very standard lab mixer), so I'm sure you can get something like that. Good luck!  

vhogiono

@ketchito Thanks so much for the reference and also the premix aprox. It seems the way I process it is wrong. I will try this.