I'm a relatively new formulator working in the CBD space. I've been given a list of ingredients (without instruction unfortunately) and asked to produce several products from the list.
I've put together the ingredients in the first, to the best of my ability and understanding of the ingredients, and the texture is not what I expected. Below is the list of ingredients and I'll include how I attempted to put them together.
My primary goal is to troubleshoot this recipe, with secondary goals of feedback on my reasoning given an ingredient list with no instruction.
- Face Mask
- Sodium Polyacrylate
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Hemp Resin
- Rice Bran Wax
- Polysorbate 60
- Jojoba Oil
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Silicone Oil
- Cermide 2
- Ethylhexyl Glycerin
- Total water volume less 100 grams was placed into a 2L beaker and began heating to 70C
- Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Polyacrylate, and Glycerin were combined in a separate beaker.
-- My first issue, I attempted to add water to this beaker to thin it out and pour it into the main body, but this had the opposite effect and actiavted the polymers, causing them to rapidly thicken. I was able to put the majority into the main body of water and eventually dissolve it all after a few hours of stirring. --
- Added Polysorbate 60 to the main body of water while mixing in polymers.
- In a separate beaker, oil phase ingredients were mixed and began heating to 70C (Hemp Resin, Rice Bran Wax, Jojoba Oil, Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Silicone oil, Squalane, Silica)
- When the water reached 65C, Ceramide 2 was added and the mixture was mixed with a **high shear homogenizer for 10 minutes**
--Another issue I may have, I'm not sure if a high shear homogenizer is appropriate as it might ruin the polymeric structure within the product, please advise if possible--
- Oil phase and water phase were mixed and processed with a high shear homogenizer for 20 minutes
- Began cooling to 50C
- Once at 50 C, remaining ingredients were added (Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ceramide 2, Tripeptide-5, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin)
So far the mixture has remained stable, but the texture is very thin for a product intended to be a "rinse-off" face mask.
There are several other products I'll be working on in the coming week, I intend to consult UL Prospector for formulas containing each ingredient for some reference to how each should be added and to what phase. Further, I intend to request a bench top mixer more appropriate for lotion creation.
Thanks for reading, I appreciate any help that can be offered.