Vitamin C serum

I have to make a 20% vitamin C serum.  The viscosity is waterlike.  I was asked to use MAP as a last resort.
 i put in my ferulic acid and my whole system became cloudy.  My system was ph-2.43 I was adjusting the pH with 30% soln NaOH.  Any suggestions

Deionized Water (0.2 µm filtered) 64.500
propanediol 10.000
Vitamin C-L-ascorbic acid 20.0000
Ferulic acid 0.4000
Sodium hyaluronate  0.4000
IPM 2.0000
polysorbate 60 1.0000
Vitamin E 0.5000
Alphaflor GigaWhite 0.2000
Euxyl 9010 1.0000
Citric Acid 0.0000

Comments

  • suswang8suswang8 Member
    I cannot really help, other than to say the Internet is overflowing with C/E/ferulic recipes, such as this one:

    I think to get more help on this board, if you don't want to go with one of the recipes online, is to re-list your ingredients and indicate your phases.
  • StanleyStanley Member
    thank you kindly
  • StanleyStanley Member
    okay, i have made this but it keeps coming out pale yellow.  How do i get this to be colorless?  I neutralized this at the end and it stayed yellowish.
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    @Stanley It may be yellow today but it will be dark brown in 2 -3 weeks. That's Vitamin C doing what it does best: oxidizing to dehydroascorbic acid. Brown stuff all day. 

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Stanley said:
    I have to make a 20% vitamin C serum.  The viscosity is waterlike.  I was asked to use MAP as a last resort.
     i put in my ferulic acid and my whole system became cloudy.  My system was ph-2.43 I was adjusting the pH with 30% soln NaOH.  Any suggestions

    Deionized Water (0.2 µm filtered) 64.500
    propanediol 10.000
    Vitamin C-L-ascorbic acid 20.0000
    Ferulic acid 0.4000
    Sodium hyaluronate  0.4000
    IPM 2.0000
    polysorbate 60 1.0000
    Vitamin E 0.5000
    Alphaflor GigaWhite 0.2000
    Euxyl 9010 1.0000
    Citric Acid 0.0000
    @Stanley

    You're light on the 1,3-Propanediol.  Jack that up to 20% to 25%.  Heat the propanediol up to 80C or so and then add the Ferulic Acid to the hot propanediol stirring to dissolve the FA, then add that to your water phase.

    IPM ... why?
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @Stanley

    This might help you:

    (1)   Heat propanediol + ferulic acid to 80 to dissolve FA

    (2)   Add (1) to water

    (3)   Add HA to (2) stirring @ 300RPM to hydrate HA (if you add HA after you ad the Ascorbic Acid, it will take forever to hydrate at a low pH)

    (4)  Add other W/S ingredients

    (5)  Pre-mix Polysorbate and Vitamin E .. Add to stirring (4)

    (6)  When (5) cools to 35C, add Ascorbic Acid

    (7)  Adjust pH to 3.2 - 3.5

    The solution will appear yellow in the beaker, but when you pour it into a 30ml container, it will appear clear in the eye dropper.


    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    I'd suggest adding sodium bisulphite as an anti-oxidant and benzophenone-4 as a radical trap
    (disclaimer: I've not actually tried the latter in this context, but it's very effective at preventing radical-induced dye degradation)
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • StanleyStanley Member
    @chemicalmatt @MarkBroussard @Bill_Toge

    Thank you for your input..... 
  • StanleyStanley Member
    Okay!!!---Stability

    I have made 2 Vitamin C prototypes... I put them in a 45C oven for a week as well as a RT retains (protected from light).

    A week later
    The RT covered retains are pretty much the same coloring as when I started.  Sample A- is a straw yellow
    Sample B-is a darker straw yellow

    A week later-45C oven samples 
    Sample A- has gotten moderately darker from the near clear initial start.
    Sample B- has gotten darker to the yellow/orange range.

    Not sure how to interpet this.  Sample A maybe good for a month before it start turning yellow?

    Suggestions....
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