Tremella- any experience?

Hi all,
      Has anyone had any experience with tremella powder- I have used it in a facial cream - first hydrating it as a 5% solution and then utilizing a percentage of it. I have had some good reviews from friends and family and has seen in a few products as well- but wasn't sure if this is the right way of doing it. Thoughts ? 

Comments

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    edited June 10
    I'm not sure I understand what advice/information you are looking for. You've used the product and feel like you are getting some benefit, or at least friends and family seem to.

    My thoughts are this...
    1. What benefit are you hoping to get from Tremella powder?
    2. What special benefit does tremella powder provide?
    3. Can you get the same benefits or more using a less expensive system/material?
    4. Why wouldn't you use something less expensive & more reliable?

    In my view an ingredient like Tremella is a "claims" ingredient. You put it in a formula at a tiny percentage because it is expensive and it doesn't provide as good a benefit as other ingredients (assuming moisturization is what you are going for).

    But you have to decide what kind of formulator/product developer do you want to be. 

    Do you want to make products that work the best using whatever ingredients deliver?

    or

    Do you want to restrict yourself to natural materials and make less effective products? 
  • CinemaCinema Member
    @Perry hi thanks for the reply, yes I am more inclined towards naturally derived materials. It has some good humectant properties ( which I have used other ingredients for as well) but trying something new. I am not a big fan of Hyaluronic acid. Yes it is expensive and I am not saying that I am committed to it- but again trying. Naturally derived materials will always deliver slower benefit, as compared to their synthetic counter parts that is for sure. That is the reason most products that may have herbal or natural ingredients ( as their marketing strategy and with good intentions, I am sure) but may also add additives that show a quicker benefit ( Vitamin C, Niacinamide, MPC, Hyaluronic acid ) coz no one will wait for long term benefits and go buy that product again- even though the marketing claims drew them to it. I am looking for a niche - natural doesn't have to be less effective and natural does not mean that I discard all the other very essential ingredients that make up a good product as well.  Looking if anyone actually knows how to use this ingredient as I am going by my gut instinct as to how to formulate with this powder.  If I don't get any answers, so be it :-)
  • emma1985emma1985 Member
    Cinema said:
    Hi all,
          Has anyone had any experience with tremella powder- I have used it in a facial cream - first hydrating it as a 5% solution and then utilizing a percentage of it. I have had some good reviews from friends and family and has seen in a few products as well- but wasn't sure if this is the right way of doing it. Thoughts ? 
    No research on tremella mushroom as a topical as far as I know. Marketing will tell you it's as effective as Hyaluronic Acid as a humectant.

    If you are making skincare for yourself, I wouldn't bother and just use Hyaluronic Acid. 

    If you have a skincare line, it might be worth using because it is seen as a valuable ingredient in the Kbeauty consumer community.
  • CinemaCinema Member
    emma1985 said:
    Cinema said:
    Hi all,
          Has anyone had any experience with tremella powder- I have used it in a facial cream - first hydrating it as a 5% solution and then utilizing a percentage of it. I have had some good reviews from friends and family and has seen in a few products as well- but wasn't sure if this is the right way of doing it. Thoughts ? 
    No research on tremella mushroom as a topical as far as I know. Marketing will tell you it's as effective as Hyaluronic Acid as a humectant.

    If you are making skincare for yourself, I wouldn't bother and just use Hyaluronic Acid. 

    If you have a skincare line, it might be worth using because it is seen as a valuable ingredient in the Kbeauty consumer community.
    Thanks for your input- much appreciated
  • PhilGeisPhilGeis Member, Professional formulator
    edited June 10
    Added as humectant?  
  • CinemaCinema Member
    @Philgels yes
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    edited June 10
    If it is being added as a humectant, this is the strategy I would use.

    1.  Use glycerin or propylene glycol at effective levels.
    2.  Use Tremella at a tiny amount so you can put it on the label.

    In this way you get the benefits of a good working product and the same marketing benefits as if you had used tremella alone. Plus, it costs a fraction of the price to make!
  • SylaranaSylarana Member
    I've used tremella polysaccharide as a thickener. I also don't think there is any special hydration benefit. I quite like the texture it gives to serums but HMW hyaluronic acid also feels nice and is less expensive.
  • CinemaCinema Member
    Perry said:
    If it is being added as a humectant, this is the strategy I would use.

    1.  Use glycerin or propylene glycol at effective levels.
    2.  Use Tremella at a tiny amount so you can put it on the label.

    In this way you get the benefits of a good working product and the same marketing benefits as if you had used tremella alone. Plus, it costs a fraction of the price to make!
    @ Perry thanks and a good idea
  • CinemaCinema Member
    Sylarana said:
    I've used tremella polysaccharide as a thickener. I also don't think there is any special hydration benefit. I quite like the texture it gives to serums but HMW hyaluronic acid also feels nice and is less expensive.
    @ Sylarana thanks - and yes it adds thickness to my serum too 
  • jemolianjemolian Member
    Tremella is quite the premium humectant to use, so i'd recommend adding it only as a small percentage as a label claim ingredient unless you are using it in a higher percentage for specific purposes. 

    Based on patch testing at 0.1% or 0.2% powder (can't really recall the actual amount), in the short term, i didn't seem to do much for my skin. 

    You can take a look at my dropbox folder to see if you find anything interesting since there are some data from different manufacturers. You can download it to keep them in case i move them away in the future. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kipeuwo1k67wi9y/AACm5tZN1Lx2nwaQvYE4Z8Voa?dl=0

    Mine is the powder version from Shanghai Huiwen. 
  • CinemaCinema Member
    jemolian said:
    Tremella is quite the premium humectant to use, so i'd recommend adding it only as a small percentage as a label claim ingredient unless you are using it in a higher percentage for specific purposes. 

    Based on patch testing at 0.1% or 0.2% powder (can't really recall the actual amount), in the short term, i didn't seem to do much for my skin. 

    You can take a look at my dropbox folder to see if you find anything interesting since there are some data from different manufacturers. You can download it to keep them in case i move them away in the future. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kipeuwo1k67wi9y/AACm5tZN1Lx2nwaQvYE4Z8Voa?dl=0

    Mine is the powder version from Shanghai Huiwen. 
    Thanks for the information @jemolian - I will check it out. yes, I have used it as only 0.1 to 0.5 % only.
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