Pomade Humectant Proportions

Hi all, first post on here.
I'm working on an emulsion formula for a pomade with medium high hold and am only a few weeks into research. Below is the formula I'm working with; I am wondering how to add veg glycerin and propylene glycol. From what I understand, they are both humectants and often used in tandem. How would I go about adding them to my formula?

-Carnauba Wax: 17%
-Avocado oil: 2%
-Jojoba oil: 2%
-Shea butter: 5%
-Kaolin Clay: 3%
-Bentonite Clay: 1%
-PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 5%
-Water: 63.5%
-Fragrance: 1.5%

Thank you,
Jackson

Comments

  • Hi, is it pomade for hair? I'm little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don't see any emulsifier? 
  • Paprik said:
    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I'm little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don't see any emulsifier? 
    Yes, hair pomade. I haven't added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I've done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I've swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson
  • jacksons said:
    Paprik said:
    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I'm little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don't see any emulsifier? 
    Yes, hair pomade. I haven't added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I've done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I've swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson
    Shea butter is not an emulsifier. Your product is likely being held together by the wax and Hydrogenated Castor Oil, but I would be surprised if it remained stable over time.
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Weirdly, the bentonite and PEG-40 HCO might  just hold this together for a few weeks. Good 'ol bentonite! Colloid workhorse. Back to @Paprik statement: a preservative is highly advised and lots of it with kaolin involved. 
      
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited February 19
    jacksons said:
    Paprik said:
    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I'm little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don't see any emulsifier? 
    Yes, hair pomade. I haven't added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I've done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I've swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson
    Your PEG-40 HCO eliminates this Formula for the Organic standards as well as most Third Party Natural Standards. This is why the word "natural" is of little use in R&D, no defined standard.

    In summary, it isn't "Organic" (a defined standard) nor is it "natural."

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • I appreciate the input and advice. I am learning alot; thank you. 

    Would 0.5% preservative suffice, or is that dependent on the preservative in question?

    Back to the original question: how do I determine what ratio PG:VG to add? Does anyone have any example percentages to use in this application?

    Lastly, in response to @Microformulation , I’ve sourced USDA certified organic PEG40 Hydrog Castor Oil, wouldn’t that mean that it is an organic component of my formula?

    Again, thank you all for the help.
    Jackson
  • Regarding the preservative, we really can't really tell. 
    Kaolin is considered a high risk ingredient, so very robust preservative system is a must. Especially if the product would be in a high risk packaging - open neck jar, where customers will dip their fingers into.
    Therefor I would suggest also chelating agent to support the preservative. 
    PET (preservative efficacy testing) would need to be conducted to make sure it will be effective for the products' shelf life. 
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited February 22
    PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is produced by reacting Hydrogenated Castor oil with ethylene oxide. It is highly unlikely there is a bonafide USDA NOP Organic Certified version, but "perhaps" I am wrong. What is your source of the raw material?

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
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