Feedback on rinse-off hair conditioner

MariaG

Hello!

I'm new at formulating/manufacturing cosmetics products, so I'll really appreciate any help with my rinse-off conditioner formula

Problem: My hair (curly, dry) is still a bit frizzy! and not enough conditioned

Formula:

Water	71.2
Cetrimonium chloride	5
stearamidopropyl dimethylamine	3
Argan oil	1
Coconut oil	1
Shea butter	1
Cetyl alcohol	3.5
Stearyl alcohol	2.5
Amodimethicone	2.5
Hydrolyzed Keratin	2
PEG-12 Dimethicone	2
Polyquaternium 7	2
Pantenol	0.5
Parfum	1
Citric Acid	0.8
Phenoxyethanol	1

Questions:

• What would you change to make this formula better?
• Increasing oils % would help?
• heating water+cetrimonium chloride+stearamidopropyl dimethylamine up to 80 C is OK as procedure?
• Adding dimethicone or cyclomethicone would help?

I'm also planning to add about 5% of claim ingredients for marketing purposes. 


Thank you!!

natzam44

Here is what I would change:

1. Lower Cetrimonium Chloride to 0.5% (or lower). I don't know where you live, but 5% is far too high and exceeds the legal limit in some places.

2. Hydrolyzed keratin can be lowered to claims levels.

3. Polyquaternium 7 will be equally as effective at 1%

4. Not sure if you've already made this, but you seem to have a lot of thickener in there. If it works as is, then leave it.

5. 1% seems ridiculously high for your fragrance. I usually use <0.5%.

6. Not sure if this has been challenge tested but I'm not confident that 1% phenoxyethanol will suffice for preservation. 

MariaG

Hey @natzam44 thank you for your answer! Would you swap the cetrimonium chloride for another ingredient? or just leave as it is at 0.5%?

natzam44

@MariaG I would keep it in at 0.25%

natzam44

@MariaG I also wanted to ask if that citric acid was in solution? If not, then 0.8% will most certainly be too much. I personally use a 20% solution and check the pH with a pH meter every 2-3 drops for samples (40g).

MariaG

@natzam44 yes, it is a solution! Will do the 2-3 drop process! Thanks