Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Dermosoft 1388 drying question

Tagged: 

  • Dermosoft 1388 drying question

    Posted by helenhelen on February 1, 2021 at 7:17 pm

    Non-chemist questions alert!

    Can Dermosoft 1388 (Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate) be drying? I’ve used it consistently over the last year in different emulsion versions for my own use at 1% along with pentylene glycol but as this is on the lower recommended usage rate, I tried increasing the Dermosoft 1388 to 2% in a few formulations (with nothing else changed) and my skin was severely dehydrated/dried out like paper even after one application on all of those tests. (I was using the cream on my body and hands.)

    It got me wondering if all this time, I’ve been trying harder and harder to create a intensive moisturising effect on what I thought was my skin getting drier with age/seasons, when actually I’ve just been battling against a build-up of low level of dehydration from constant application of Dermosoft 1388. 1% usage doesn’t cause the severe dehydration that I got from 2% but I am wondering if it is still drying my skin out a bit.

    When I was much younger I used to use face washes with salicylic acid which also dried my skin out in a similar way.. would the “organic acids” in Dermosoft 1388 act similarly on my skin to salicylic acid?

    helenhelen replied 3 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Andraous

    Member
    February 1, 2021 at 7:49 pm

  • pattsi

    Member
    February 2, 2021 at 8:02 am

    Penetration Enhancement

    Levulinic Acid
    The performance of 3 transdermal buprenorphine patch formulations, combined with 8% (w/w) Levulinic Acid, lauryl
    alcohol, or Tween 80, was tested upon 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm of abdominal skin from male Sprague-Dawley rats (number not
    specified).25 Response surface methodology was used to evaluate the interactive effects of various skin permeation and
    adhesion properties. The skin flux, and hence penetration potential of buprenorphine, was highest in the presence of
    Levulinic Acid. The authors postulated that the chemical structure of Levulinic Acid has the potential to disrupt or fluidize
    lipids in the stratum corneum, hence leading to an increased partitioning and absorption of buprenorphine.

    https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Levulinic.pdf  

  • helenhelen

    Member
    February 2, 2021 at 3:09 pm

    Pattsi said:

    Penetration Enhancement

    Levulinic Acid
    The performance of 3 transdermal buprenorphine patch formulations, combined with 8% (w/w) Levulinic Acid, lauryl
    alcohol, or Tween 80, was tested upon 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm of abdominal skin from male Sprague-Dawley rats (number not
    specified).25 Response surface methodology was used to evaluate the interactive effects of various skin permeation and
    adhesion properties. The skin flux, and hence penetration potential of buprenorphine, was highest in the presence of
    Levulinic Acid. The authors postulated that the chemical structure of Levulinic Acid has the potential to disrupt or fluidize
    lipids in the stratum corneum, hence leading to an increased partitioning and absorption of buprenorphine.

    https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Levulinic.pdf  

    Thank you @Pattsi

Log in to reply.