The peeling effect of niacinamide

I want to ask about the formulation for the active ingredient niacinamide. I tried to formulate it and I tried to use it myself, but when it got quite deep into the skin and I grabbed it and tried to wipe it got peeling. I tried to find out on the internet and indeed products with this active ingredient experienced the peeling effect.
have you guys ever experienced this problem before? and can the formula be improved to eliminate the peeling effect??


  • "Peeling" as in it made your skin peel or did it "pill" as in ball up? 
  • Hello Faustin,

    I'm sorry, your description is kind of vague. I'm not really sure what do you mean by "when it got quite deep into the skin and I grabbed it and tried to wipe it got peeling". 
    What % did you use? Can you also share the formula so we can see the whole thing? 

    But just couple of things about Niacinamide - Vit. B3. Water soluble, usage I would say 1-5%. @2% TEWL, helping your skin barrier, stimulates collagen production.
    @5% - reduces appearance of age spots.
    pH around 6 ( wouldn't go under 5 and above 7 ).
    Stable in light and oxygen.
    Add to formula <70°C.
  • What was your inclusion rate, and pH?

  • You must have added too much??? I have never had that problem, what else did you put in it?
    Dr. Catherine Pratt
    (B.Sc with HONS I , Ph.D Analytical/Organic Chem and Microbiology), Cosmetic Chemistry IPCS)
  • Hello All,

    I am having a similar issue with my cream pilling once other things like makeup (foundation) is applied. My formula consists of the following: 

    Distilled Water  40%
    Rose Hydrosol  20%
    Veg Glycerin     5%
    Caffeine           0.50%
    Niacinamide     2%
    D-Panthenol    1%
    MSM                2%    
    Xanthan Gum  0.30%

    Sweet Almond Oil 6.75%
    Naturemulse    6%
    Stearic Acid     2%
    Lauryl Laurate 3%

    Rosehip Seed Oil 5%
    Carrot Oil        5%
    Vitamin E        0.1%
    Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.5%

    L-Arginine 0.05% (If needed to adjust PH)
    Phenylpropanol EHG 0.8%

    I read a comment above that the niacinamide should be added at 70c. Could the issue be that I have been adding it before heating? Any advice is much appreciated. 

  • Does this formula pill on its own or only after using the foundation? Have to tried either waiting for the cream to dry down before using the foundation or have to tried reducing the xanthan? 
  • @Faustin, do you mean peeling effect is after it dry, it leaves white powder of niacinamide ? or the skin that peeling?
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