Water soluble Essential Oils?

IaskedbetterIaskedbetter Member
edited January 2015 in Formulating
I am looking at a facial toner INCI list and I am wondering if I am missing something. The ingredient list is:

Water
Witch Hazel Leaf Extract
Glycerin
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Hyaluronic Acid
Panthenol
Allantoin
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil
Sorbitol
Calcium Ascorbate
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
Potassium Sorbate

The product is a clear, yellow tinted liquid with a strong citrus fragrance. My question is how are those essential oils (in bold) solubilized based on this IL? Are there water soluble essential oils? I appreciate any thoughts on this.

Comments

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • I could just assume that formulation contains three different alcohols altogether - Glycerin, Panthenol and Sorbitol ergo no additional solubilizers required to maintain the clear appearance of this product.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    I think it's pretty clear that the 1% line is at or just below the glycerin, which means that they could be adding the essential oils at 0.001% or even less. At some ultra-low percentage, you could probably get those oils into the sorbitol.

    Of course, the other possibility is that those three oils are part of a fragrance mix, and the company conveniently "forgot" to include the solubilizers when they wrote the ingredient list.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @iaskedbetter:

    is this the LOI in the order the ingredients appear on the product label?
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Since orange and grapefruit peel oils can be quite irritating to the skin, BobZ is point on in his assessment. They probably use a high weight hyaluronic acid as a thickener to bind it all together. This looks like a Rhonda Allison formulation?
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • @MarkBroussard Yes but I did leave some marketing extracts out. After Witch Hazel there's 5 obvious marketing ingredients (ginger root extract, lemon balm extracts, algae extract, grapefruit leaf extract, white tea extract, and orange extract) then Glycerin.

    @Bobzchemist Agree with you on the 1% line (I think it would be below witch hazel) but the mystery is how heavily fragranced the product is. There's definitely something fragrancing this product and at first glance you would have to assume it would be the essential oils. Yet no solubilizers?

    @Vitalys You think there are enough sugar alcohols so solubilize the essential oils? Even if the total was <3%?

    Appreciate the thoughts guys.
  • IaskedbetterIaskedbetter Member
    edited January 2015
    @MarkBrousard The product is very thin. Probably only slightly more viscous than water. It is a product sold by a company in Whole Foods. Excellent point about skin irritation though...I hadn't considered that/ 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Your face would not be able to tolerate those essential oils at much above a fraction of a percent total. I'm sure they added just enough to get the fragrance.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
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