Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Silicons alternatives - formulation

  • Silicons alternatives - formulation

    Posted by Cyro on November 10, 2020 at 1:54 pm

    Hi guys, 

    Currently working on a haircare project where we are forbidden to use any kind of “bad silicons”. 

    We found such client-complying alternatives:
    - Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
    - Coco-caprylate/ Caprate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
    - Ethyl Macadamiate

    As Ethyl Macadamiate is rather expensive, we are looking more into other two ingredients.

    We have never worked with them before and samples that can be supplied to us are quite minimal to have it broadly tested.

    Do you have any experience with adding these to formulations? In what kind of percentage should we aim for? Manufacturer says that for shampoos and conditioners they propose 0.5-3%, it is oil soluble, and we will mix it with surfactant first before adding to water. 

    Use of the ingredient is to add more hair manageability, increase slippery, smoothness and make it easier to comb.

    Any advice? 

    Thanks in advance 🙂

    crillz replied 3 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • singhc10

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 2:59 pm

    For Shampoo, just go claim level 0.10%
    For Conditioner, you could go to 0.5%, but do not really need too

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 3:40 pm

    @Cyro Considering that it’s very hard to actually replace silicones (performance, deposition, shine, flexibility, etc.), a fair tweak for shampoos is to increase cationic polymers, use esthers (I’d go for the second one in your list) and even include an amido-amine surfactant. For conditioners, relying on cationic surfactants and esthers/oils is aso a fair way to go.

  • Cyro

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 4:45 pm

    @singhc10 Thanks. We will start with testing around these numbers.

    @ketchito I see, what concentration do you recommend? Same as singhc?

  • crillz

    Member
    November 10, 2020 at 11:37 pm

    Ive heard Lexfeel is a good replacement for cyclomethicone and the sorts which gives good slip.

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